Changes to 2016 Tax Filing Deadlines

In 2015, a bill was passed that changed tax filing deadlines for certain IRS forms that will impact a lot of filers.  Not only is it important to know the changes so you can prepare and file your return timely but to understand why the changes were made.

Summary of Changes

IRS Form Business Type Previous Deadline New Deadline

1065 Partnership April 15 March 15

1120C Corporation March 15 April 15

NOTE:  The dates in the chart above are for companies with years ending 12/31.  If a company has a different fiscal year, Partnerships will now file by the 15th day of the third month following year end and C Corporations will now file by the 15th day of the fourth month following year end.

Why the Changes?

The most practical reason for the change to filing deadlines is that individuals with partnership interests will now have a better opportunity to file their individual returns (Form 1040) without extending.  Form K-1 provides information related to the activity of a Partnership at the level of each individual partner.  For example, if I own 50% of a Partnership, my K-1 would show 50% of the income (or loss) generated, certain deductions, and any other activity needed for me to file my Form 1040.  The issue with the previous Partnership return deadline of April 15th is that it coincided with the individual deadline.  This resulted in partners of the company not receiving their K-1’s with sufficient time to file their personal return by April 15th.   With Partnerships now having a deadline of March 15th, this will give individuals a month to receive their K-1 and file their personal return without having to extend.

The deadline for Form 1120, which is filed by C Corporations, was also changed with this bill.  Where the Form 1065 deadline was cut back by a month, the Form 1120 was extended a month.  C Corporations, for tax purposes, are treated similar to individuals whereas they pay taxes directly when they file their return.  Partnerships are not taxed directly, rather the income or loss is passed through to each individual partner who recognizes the tax ramifications on their personal return.  For this reason, the deadline for Form 1120 being extended a month has little impact, if any, on individuals.  The change gives C Corporations more time to file without having to extend the return.

S Corporations are another common business type.  The deadlines for S Corporation returns (Form 1120S) were not changed with this bill.  S Corporations are similar to Partnerships in that K-1’s are distributed to owners and the income or loss generated is passed through to the individuals return.  That being said, Form 1120S already has a due date of March 15th, the same as the new Partnership deadline.

Extension Deadlines

IRS Form Business Type Deadline

1040 Individual October 15

1065 Partnership September 15

1120 C Corporation September 15

1120S S Corporation September 15

Extension deadlines were not immediately changed with the passing of the bill.  Although Partnerships previously had the same filing deadline as individuals, the deadline with the filing of an extension was a month before.  This was necessary because if a Partnership did not have to file an extended return until October 15th, individuals with partnership interests wouldn’t have a choice but to file delinquent.

The one change to the extension chart above set to take place in 2026 is the C Corporation extension being changed to October 15th.

Summary

Overall, the changes appear to have improved the filing calendar.  This may be a big adjustment for Partnerships that are used to the April 15th deadline as they will have one less month to get organized and file.  For this reason, you may see an increase in 2016 Partnership extensions.

About Rob……...

Hi, I’m Rob Mangold. I’m the Chief Operating Officer at Greenbush Financial Group and a contributor to the Money Smart Board blog. We created the blog to provide strategies that will help our readers personally , professionally, and financially. Our blog is meant to be a resource. If there are questions that you need answered, pleas feel free to join in on the discussion or contact me directly.

A New Year: Should I Make Changes To My Retirement Account?

A simple and easy answer to this question would be…..Maybe?  Not only would that answer make this article extremely short, it wouldn’t explain some important items that participants should take into consideration when making decisions about their retirement plan.Every time the calendar adds a year we get a sense of reset.  A lot of the same tasks on the to do list get added each January and hopefully this article helps you focus on matters to consider regarding your retirement plan.

Should I Consult With The Advisor On My Plan?

At our firm we make an effort to meet with participants at least annually.  Saving in company retirement plans is about longevity so many times the individual meetings are brief and no allocation changes are made.  Even if this is the result, an overview of your account, at least annually, is a good way to keep retirement savings fresh in your mind and add a sense of comfort that you’re investing appropriately based on your time horizon and risk tolerance.

These individual meetings are also a good time to discuss other financial questions you may have.  Your retirement plan is only a piece of your financial plan and we encourage participants to use the resources available to them.  Often times these meetings start off as a simple account overview but turn into lengthy conversations about various financial decisions the participant has been weighing.

How Much Should I Be Contributing This Year?

This answer is not the same for everyone because, among other things, people have different retirement goals, financial situations, and time horizon.  That being said, if the  company has a match component in their plan, the first milestone would be to contribute enough to receive the most the company is willing to give you.  For example, if the company will match 100% of your contributions up to 3% of pay, any amount you contribute less than 3% will leave you missing out on retirement savings the company is willing to provide you.

Again, the amount that should be saved is dependent on the individual but saving anywhere from 10% to 15% of your compensation is a good benchmark.  In the previous example, if the company will match 3%, that means you would have to contribute 7% to achieve the lower end of that benchmark.  This may seem like a difficult task so starting at an amount you are comfortable with and working your way to your ultimate goal is important.

Should You Be Making Allocation Changes?

The initial allocation you choose for your retirement account is important.  Selecting the   appropriate portfolio from the start based on your risk tolerance and time until retirement can satisfy your investment needs for a number of years.  The chart below shows that over longer periods of time historical annual returns tend to be less volatile.

When you have over 10 years until retirement, reviewing the account at least annually is   important as there are a number of reasons you would want to change your allocation.  Lifestyle changes, different retirement goals, or specific investment performance to name a few. Participants tend to lose out on investment return when they try to time the market and are forced to sell low and buy high.  This chart shows that even though there may be volatility in the short term, as long as you have time and an appropriate allocation from the start, you should see returns that will help you achieve your retirement goals. 

About Rob……...

Hi, I’m Rob Mangold. I’m the Chief Operating Officer at Greenbush Financial Group and a contributor to the Money Smart Board blog. We created the blog to provide strategies that will help our readers personally , professionally, and financially. Our blog is meant to be a resource. If there are questions that you need answered, pleas feel free to join in on the discussion or contact me directly.

Where Are We In The Market Cycle?

Before you can determine where you are going, you first have to know where you are now.  Seems like a simple concept.  A similar approach is taken when we are developing the investment strategy for our client portfolios.  The question more specifically that we are trying to answer is “where are we at in the market cycle?”  Is there more upside to the market?  Is there a downturn coming?  No one knows for sure and there is no single market indicator that has proven to be an accurate predicator of future market trends.  Instead, we have to collect data on multiple macroeconomic indicators and attempt to plot where we are in the current market cycle.   Here is a snapshot of where we are at now:

The length of the current bull market is starting to worry some investors. Living through the tech bubble and the 2008 recession, those were healthy reminders that markets do not always go up.  We are currently in the 87th month of the expansion which is the 4th longest on record.  Since 1900, the average economic expansion has lasted 46 months.  This leaves many investors questioning, “is the bull market rally about to end?”  We are actually less concerned about the “duration” of the expansion.  We prefer to look at the “magnitude” of the expansion.  This recovery has been different.  In most economic recoveries the market grows rapidly following a recession.  If you look at the magnitude of this expansion that started in the 4th quarter of 2007 versus previous expansions, it has been lackluster at best.  See the chart on the next page. This may lead investors to conclude that there is more to the current economic expansion.

Next up, employment.  Over the past 50 years, the unemployment rate has averaged 6.2%.  We are currently sitting at an unemployment rate of 5.0%.  Based on that number it may be reasonable to conclude that we are close to full employment.  Once you get close to full employment you begin to lose that surge in growth that the economy receives from adding 250,000+ jobs per month.  It may also imply that we are getting closer to the end of this market cycle.

Now let’s look at the valuation levels in the stock market.  In other words, in general are the stocks in the S&P 500 Index cheap to buy, fairly valued, or expensive to buy at this point?  We measure this by the forward price to earning ratio (P/E) of the S&P 500 index.   The average P/E of the S&P 500 over the last 25 years is 15.9.  Back in 2008, the P/E of the S&P 500 was around 9.0.  From a valuation standpoint, back in 2008, stocks were very cheap to buy.  When stocks are cheap, investors tend to hold them regardless of what’s happening in the global economy with the hopes that they will at least become “fairly valued” at some point in the future.  Right now the P/E Ratio of the S&P 500 Index is about 16.8 which is above the 15.9 historic average.  This may indicate that stock are starting to become “expensive” from a valuation standpoint and investors may be  tempted to sell positions during periods of volatility.

Even though stocks may be perceived as “overvalued” that does not necessarily mean they are not going to become more overvalued from here.  In fact, often times after long bull rallies “the plane will overshoot the runway”.  However, it does typically mean that big gains are harder to come by since a large amount of the future earnings expectations of the S&P 500 companies are already baked into the stock price.  It leaves the door open for more quarterly earning disappointments which could rise to higher levels of volatility in the markets.

The most popular question of the year goes to: “Trump or Hillary?  And how will the outcome impact the stock market?”  I try not to get too deep in the weeds of politics mainly because history has shown us that there is no clear evidence whether the economy fares better under a Republican president or a Democratic president. However, here is the key point.  Markets do not like uncertainty and one of the candidates that is running (I will let you guess which one) represents a tremendous amount of uncertainty regarding the actions that they may take if elected president of the United States.  Still, under these circumstances, it is very difficult to develop a sound investment strategy centered around political outcomes that may or may not happen.   We really have to “wait and see” in this case.

Let’s travel over the Atlantic.  Brexit was a shock to the stock market over the summer but the long term ramifications of the United Kingdom’s exit from the European Union is yet to be known.  The exit process will most likely take a number of years as the EU and the UK negotiate terms. In our view, this does not pose an immediate threat to the global economy but it will represent an ongoing element of uncertainty as the EU continues to restart sustainable economic growth in the region.

The chart below is one of the most important illustrations that allows us to gauge the overall level of risk that exists in the global economy.  When a country wants to jump start its economy it will often lower the reserve rate (similar to our Fed Funds Rate) in an effort to encourage lending.  An increase in borrowing hopefully leads to an increase in  consumer spending and economic growth.  Unfortunately, countries around the globed have taken this concept to an extreme level and have implemented “negative rates”.  If you buy a 10 year government bond in Germany or Japan, you are guaranteed to lose money over that 10 year period.  If you have a checking account at a bank in Japan, instead of receiving interest from the bank, the bank may charge you a fee to hold onto your own money.  Crazy right? It’s happening.  In fact, 33% of the countries around the world have a negative yield on their 10 year government bond. See the chart below.  When you look around the globe 71% of the countries have a 10 year government bond yield below 1%.   The U.S. 10 Year Treasury sits just above that at 1.7%.

So, what does that mean for the global economy?  Basically, countries around the world are starving for economic growth and everyone is trying to jump start their economy at the same time.  Possible outcomes?  On the positive side, the stage is set for growth.  There is “cheap money” and favorable interest rates at levels that we have never seen before in history.  Meaning a little growth could go a long ways.

On the negative side, these central banks around the global are pretty much out of ammunition.  They have fired every arrow that they have at this point to prevent their economy from contracting. If they cannot get their economy to grow and begin to normalize rates in the near future, when they get hit by the next recession they will have nothing to combat it with.   It’s like the fire department showing up to a house fire with no water in the truck.  The U.S. is not immune to this situation.  Everyone wants the Fed to either not raise rates or raise rates slowly for the fear of the negative impact that it may have on the stock market or the value of the dollar.  But would you rather take a little pain now or wait for the next recession to hit and have no way to stop the economy from contracting?   It seems like a risky game.

When we look at all of these economic factors as a whole it suggests to us that the  U.S. economy is continuing to grow but at a slower pace than a year ago.  The data leads us to believe that we may be entering the later stages of the recent bull market rally and that now is a prudent time to revisit the level of exposure to risk assets in our client portfolios.  At this point we are more concerned about entering a period of long term stagnation as opposed to a recession.  With the rate of economic growth slowing here in the U.S. and the rich valuations already baked into the stock market, we could be entering a period of muted returns from both the stock and bond market.   It is important that investors establish a realistic view of where we are in the economic cycle and adjust their return expectations accordingly.

As always, please feel free to contact me if you’d like to discuss your portfolio or our outlook for the economy.

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Traditional vs. Roth IRA’s: Differences, Pros, and Cons

Individual Retirement Accounts (IRA’s) are one of the most popular retirement vehicles available for savers and the purpose of this article is to give a general idea of how IRA’s work, explain the differences between Traditional and Roth IRA’s, and provide some pros and cons of each.  In January 2015, The Investment Company Institute put out a research report with some interesting statistics regarding IRA’s which can be found at the following link, ICI Research Perspective.  The article states, “In mid-2014, 41.5 million, or 33.7 percent of U.S. households owned at least one type of IRA”.  At first I was slightly shocked and asked myself the following question: “If IRA’s are the most important investment vehicle and source of income for most retirees, how do only one third of U.S. households own one?”  Then when I took a step back and considered how money gets deposited into these retirement vehicles this figure begins making more sense.

Yes, a lot of American’s will contribute to IRA’s throughout their lifetime whether it is to save for retirement throughout one’s lifetime or each year when the CPA gives you the tax bill and you ask “What can I do to pay less?”  When thinking about IRA’s in this way, one third of American’s owning IRA’s is a scary figure and leads one to believe more than half the country is not saving for retirement. This is not necessarily the case.  401(k) plans and other employer sponsored defined contribution plans have become very popular over the last 20 years and rather than individuals opening their own personal IRA’s, they are saving for retirement through their employer sponsored plan.

Employees with access to these employer plans save throughout their working years and then, when they retire, the money in the company retirement account will be rolled into IRA’s.  If the money is rolled directly from the company sponsored plan into an IRA, there is likely no tax or penalty as it is going from one retirement account to another.  People roll the balance into IRA’s for a number of reasons.  These reasons include the point that there is likely more flexibility with IRA’s regarding distributions compared to the company plan, more investment options available, and the retiree would like the money to be managed by an advisor.  The IRA’s allow people to draw on their savings to pay for expenses throughout retirement in a way to supplement income that they are no longer receiving through a paycheck.

The process may seem simple but there are important strategies and decisions involved with IRA’s.  One of those items is deciding whether a Traditional, Roth or both types of IRA’s are best for you.  In this article we will breakdown Traditional and Roth IRA’s which should illustrate why deciding the appropriate vehicle to use can be a very important piece of retirement planning.

Why are they used?

Both Traditional and Roth IRA’s have multiple uses but the most common for each is retirement savings.  People will save throughout their lifetime with the goal of having enough money to last in retirement.  These savings are what people are referring to when they ask questions like “What is my number?”  Savers will contribute to retirement accounts with the intent to earn money through investing.  Tax benefits and potential growth is why people will use retirement accounts over regular savings accounts.  Retirees have to cover expenses in retirement which are likely greater than the social security checks they receive.  Money is pulled from retirement accounts to cover the expenses above what is covered by social security.  People are living longer than they have in the past which means the answer to “What is my number?” is becoming larger since the money must last over a greater period.

How much can I contribute?

For both Traditional and Roth IRA’s, the limit in 2021 for individuals under 50 is the lesser of $6,000 or 100% of MAGI and those 50 or older is the lesser of $7,000 or 100% of MAGI. More limit information can be found on the IRS website Retirement Topics - IRA Contribution Limits

What are the important differences between Traditional and Roth?

Taxation

Traditional (Pre-Tax) IRA:  Typically people are more familiar with Traditional IRA’s as they’ve been around longer and allow individuals to take income off the table and lower their tax bill while saving.  Each year a person contributes to a Pre-Tax IRA, they deduct the contribution amount from the income they received in that tax year.  The IRS allows this because they want to encourage people to save for retirement.  Not only are people decreasing their tax bill in the year they make the contribution, the earnings of Pre-Tax IRA’s are not taxed until the money is withdrawn from the account.  This allows the account to earn more as money is not being taken out for taxes during the accumulation phase.  For example, if I have $100 in my account and the account earns 10% this year, I will have $10 of earnings.  Since that money is not taxed, my account value will be $110.  That $110 will increase more in the following year if the account grows another 10% compared to if taxes were taken out of the gain.  When the money is used during retirement, the individual will be taxed on the amount distributed at ordinary income tax rates because the money was never taxed before.  A person’s tax rate during retirement is likely to be lower than while they are working because total income for the year will most likely be less.  If the account owner takes a distribution prior to 59 ½ (normal retirement age), there will be penalties assessed.

Roth (After-Tax) IRA:  The Roth IRA was established by the Taxpayer Relief Act of 1997.  Unlike the Traditional IRA, contributions to a Roth IRA are made with money that has already been subject to income tax.  The money gets placed in these accounts with the intent of earning interest and then when the money is taken during retirement, there is no taxes due as long as the account has met certain requirements (i.e. has been established for at least 5 years).  These accounts are very beneficial to people who are younger or will not need the money for a significant number of years because no tax is paid on all the earnings that the account generates.  For example, if I contribute $100 to a Roth IRA and the account becomes $200 in 15 years, I will never pay taxes on the $100 gain the account generated.  If the account owner takes a distribution prior to 59 ½ (normal retirement age), there will be penalties assessed on the earnings taken.

Eligibility

Traditional IRA:  Due to the benefits the IRS allows with Traditional IRA’s, there are restrictions on who can contribute and receive the tax benefit for these accounts.  Below is a chart that shows who is eligible to deduct contributions to a Traditional IRA:

There are also Required Minimum Distributions (RMD’s) associated with Pre-Tax dollars in IRA’s and therefore people cannot contribute to these accounts after the age of 70 ½.  Once the account owner turns 70 ½, the IRS forces the individual to start taking distributions each year because the money has never been taxed and the government needs to start receiving revenue from the account.  If RMD’s are not taken timely, there will be penalties assessed.

Roth IRA:  As long as an individual has earned income, there are only income limitations on who can contribute to Roth IRA’s.  The limitations for 2021 are as follows:

There are a number of strategies to get money into Roth IRA’s as a financial planning strategy.  This method is explained in our article Backdoor Roth IRA Contribution Strategy.

Investment Strategies

Investment strategies are different for everyone as individuals have different risk tolerances, time horizons, and purposes for these accounts.

That being said, Roth IRA’s are often times invested more aggressively because they are likely the last investment someone touches during retirement or passes on to heirs.  A longer time horizon allows one to be more aggressive if the circumstances permit.  Accounts that are more aggressive will likely generate higher returns over longer periods.  Remember, Roth accounts are meant to generate income that will never be taxed, so in most cases that account should be working for the saver as long as possible.  If money is passed onto heirs, the Roth accounts are incredibly valuable as the individual who inherits the account can continue earning interest tax free.

Choosing the correct IRA is an important decision and is often times more complex than people think.  Even if you are 30 years from retiring, it is important to consider the benefits of each and consult with a professional for advice. 

About Rob……...

Hi, I’m Rob Mangold. I’m the Chief Operating Officer at Greenbush Financial Group and a contributor to the Money Smart Board blog. We created the blog to provide strategies that will help our readers personally , professionally, and financially. Our blog is meant to be a resource. If there are questions that you need answered, pleas feel free to join in on the discussion or contact me directly.

Market Alert - UK Votes To Exit EU

We have been working through the night to monitor the UK exit vote in Europe and wanted to get this information out as soon as possible.Today is a historic day.  Last night the UK voted whether or not to leave the European Union.  The polls closed at 10 p.m. last night, the votes were counted, and at 2 a.m. this morning it was announced that the UK had voted 51.9% in favor of leaving the EU.  To put this situation in context, this would be similar to New York deciding to leave the United States to form its own country.

This was not the expected outcome and is largely an unprecedented event. Going into the vote yesterday most polls expected the UK “stay” vote to prevail given the economic headwinds that the UK would  face if the “leave” vote were to win.  David Cameron, the prime minister of the UK, was largely in favor of the UK staying in the EU.  Today at 3:30 a.m., Cameron announced that he would step down as the prime minister since new leadership, that is in favor of the exit, should be in place to negotiate Britain’s exit from the EU.

The European Union (EU) is made up of 28 countries.  It was originally formed back in 1957 with the goal of preventing wars and strengthening the economic bond between the European countries in its membership.  The UK joined the EU in 1973.  Members of the EU benefit from:

• Freedom of movement between countries

• Freedom of trade for goods, services, and capital

• EU human rights protection

• Euro currency (the UK does not participate in the euro currency)

The Argument To Stay In The EU

Supporters of the UK to stay in the EU believe that the Union is better for the British economy and that concerns about migration and other issues stemming from EU membership are not important enough to outweigh the economic consequences of leaving.  Many economists agree with this claim.  Europe is Britain’s most important export market and its greatest source of foreign direct investment.  An exit of the EU could jeopardize its financial status in the world and the high paying jobs that come with that status.

Those who voted to stay were not necessarily defending the EU but were basically arguing that the UK is stronger with the EU than without.

Argument To Leave The EU

Those in favor of the UK leaving the EU believe that leaving the European Union is necessary for the UK to restore the country’s identity.  Immigration has been one of the largest issue on the agenda with refugees entering the UK under the EU’s permission and “taking jobs” in the place of UK citizens.  Voters in the middle to lower income classes are viewed as more likely to support leaving the Union due to a feeling of being “abandoned by their country” in lieu of the EU policies.

In a way Britain feels like they used to matter to the world as an independent country but over the years have lost their identity now that they are lumped into the EU.  This group of individuals wants to be able to have full control over the country’s economic policy, culture, political system, and judicial system.

What Happens Next?

Now that the UK has voted to leave the EU, it has become clear that there needs to be new leadership in government that supports the UK exit since most of the current leaders, including the prime minister, were in favor of the UK staying in the EU.  We would expect this to happen in a fairly short period of time.

Once the new leadership is in place, the negotiation will begin between the UK and the EU for the exit.  There is not a precedence for this process which leaves a lot of unknowns.  Immediately, nothing changes.  Most likely while the negotiations are taking place over the course of next few months, or more likely years since the UK is still technically an EU member, UK citizens will still be able to move about the Eurozone countries freely, trade will continue, etc.

However, there will most likely be an immediate negative impact on the UK economy given the expectation of the exit.  The British pound (currency) will most likely drop significantly.  The profitability of the multinational companies and banks that are headquartered in the UK will come into question since they will eventually lose the benefits of free trade and capital movements with other EU countries.

Overall we are entering a period of increased uncertainty. Unfortunately, in our view, there is a larger issue at hand.  Yes, the UK exiting the EU is a significant event but the larger issue is for the first time they are laying the ground work that will allow a country to exit the EU.  There are other countries in the EU that may take up similar votes to leave the European Union since a precedence is now being set for the UK to exit.  If the entire EU were to further destabilize it would most likely cause further disruption across the global economy. 

Michael Ruger

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

What is a Bond?

What is a Bond?

A bond is a form of debt in which an investor serves as the lender.  Think of a bond as a type of loan that a company or government would obtain from a bank but in this case the investor is serving as the bank.  The issuer of the bond is typically looking to generate cash for a specific use such as general operations, a specific project, and staying current or paying off other debt.

How do Investors Make Money on a Bond?

Your typical bonds will generate income for investors in one of two ways:  periodic interest payments or purchasing the bond at a discount.  There are also bonds where a combination of the two are applicable but we will explain each separately.

Interest Payments

There are interest rates associated with the bonds and interest payments are made periodically to the investor (i.e. semi-annual).  When the bonds are issued, a promise to pay the interest over the life of the bond as well as the principal when the bond becomes due is made to the investor.  For example, a $10,000 bond with a 5% interest rate would pay the investor $500 annually ($250 semi-annually).  Typically tax would be due on the interest each year and when the bond comes due, the principal would be paid tax free as a return of cash basis.

Purchasing at a Discount

Another way to earn money on a bond would be to purchase the bond at a discount and at some time in the future get paid the face value of the bond.  A simple example would be the purchase of a 10 year, $10,000 bond for a discounted price of $9,000.  10 years from the date of the purchase the investor would receive $10,000 (a $1,000 gain).  Typically, the investor would be required to recognize $100 of income per year as “Original Issue Discount” (OID).  At the end of the 10 year period, the gain will be recognized and the $10,000 would be paid but only $100, not $1,000, will have to be recognized as income in the final year.

Is There Risk in Bonds?

Investment grade bonds are often used to make a portfolio more conservative and less volatile.  If an investor is less risk oriented or approaching retirement/in retirement they would be more likely to have a portfolio with a higher allocation to bonds than a young investor willing to take risk.  This is due to the volatility in the stock market and impact a down market has on an account close to or in the distribution phase.

That being said, there are risks associated with bonds.

Interest Rate Risk – in an environment of rising interest rates, the value of a bond held by an investor will decline.  If I purchased a 10 year bond two years ago with a 5% interest rate, that bond will lose value if an investor can purchase a bond with the same level of risk at a higher interest rate today.  This will make the bond you hold less valuable and therefore will earn less if the bond is sold prior to maturity.  If the bond is held to maturity it will earn the stated interest rate and will pay the investor face value but there is an opportunity cost with holding that bond if there are similar bonds available at higher interest rates.

Default Risk – most relevant with high risk bonds, default risk is the risk that the issuer will not be able to pay the face value of the bond.  This is the same as someone defaulting on a loan.  A bond held by an investor is only as good as the ability of the issuer to pay back the amount promised.

Call Risk – often times there are call features with a bond that will allow the issuer to pay off the bond earlier than the maturity date.  In a declining interest rate environment, an issuer may issue new bonds at a lower interest rate and use the profits to pay off other outstanding bonds at higher interest rates.  This would negatively impact the investor because if they were receiving 5% from a bond that gets called, they would likely use the proceeds to reinvest in a bond paying a lower rate or accept more risk to earn the same interest rate as the called bond.

Inflation Risk – a high inflation rate environment will negatively impact a bond because it is likely a time of rising interest rates and the purchasing power of the revenue earned on the bond will decline.  For example, if an investor purchases a bond with a 3% interest rate but inflation is increasing at 5% the purchasing power of the return on that bond is eroded.

Below is a chart showing the risk spectrum of investing between asset classes and gives a visual on the different classes of bonds and their most susceptible risks.

2

Types of Bonds

Federal Government

Bonds issued by the federal government are backed by the full faith and credit of the U.S. Government and therefore are often referred to as “risk-free”.  There are always risks associated with investing but in this case “risk-free” is referring to the idea that the U.S. Government is not likely to default on a bond and therefore the investor has a high likelihood of being paid the face value of the bond if held to maturity but like any investment there is risk.

There are a number of different federal bonds known as Treasuries and below we will touch on the more common:

Treasuries – Sold via auction in $1,000 increments.  An investor will purchase the bond at a price below the face value and be paid the face value when the bond matures.  You can bid on these bonds directly through www.treasurydirect.gov, or you can purchase the bonds through a broker or bank.

Treasury Bills – Short term investments sold in $1,000 increments.  T-Bills are purchased at a discount with the promise to be paid the face value at maturity.  These bonds have a period of less than a year and therefore, in a normal market environment, rates will be less than those of longer term bonds.

Treasury Notes – Sold in $1,000 increments and have terms of 2, 5, and 10 years.  Treasury notes are often purchased at a discount and pay interest semi-annually.  The 10 year Treasury note is most often used to discuss the U.S. government bond market and analyze the markets take on longer term macroeconomic trends.

Treasury Bonds – Similar to Treasury Notes but have periods of 30 years.

Treasury Inflation-Protected Securities (TIPS) – Sold in 5, 10, and 20 year terms.  Not only will TIPS pay periodic interest, the face value of the bond will also increase with inflation each year.  The increase in face value will be taxable income each year even though the principal is not paid until maturity.  Interest rates on TIPS are usually lower than bonds with like terms because of the inflation protection.

Savings Bonds – There are two types of savings bonds still being issued, Series EE and Series I.  The biggest difference between the two is that Series EE bonds have a fixed interest rate while Series I bonds have a fixed interest rate as well as a variable interest rate component.  Savings bonds are purchased at a discount and accrue interest monthly.  Typically these bonds mature in 20 years but can be cashed early and the cash basis plus accrued interest at the time of sale will be paid to the investor.

Municipal Bonds (Munis) – Bonds issued by states, cities, and local governments to fund specific projects.  These bonds are exempt from federal tax and depending on where you live and where the bond was issued they may be tax free at the state level as well.  There are two categories of Munis: Government Obligation Bonds and Revenue Bonds.  Government Obligation Bonds are secured by the full faith and credit of the issuer’s taxing power (property/income/other).  These bonds must be approved by voters.  Revenue Bonds are secured by the revenues derived from specific activities the bonds were used to finance.  These can be revenues from activities such as tolls, parking garages, or sports arenas.

Agency Bonds – These bonds are issued by government sponsored enterprises such as the Federal Home Loan Mortgage Association (Freddie Mac), the Federal Home Loan Mortgage Association (Fannie Mae), and the Federal Agricultural Mortgage Corporation (Farmer Mac).  Agency bonds are used to stimulate activity such as increasing home ownership or agriculture production.  Although they are not backed by the full faith and credit of the U.S. Government, they are viewed as less risky than corporate bonds.

Corporate Bonds – These bonds are issued by companies and although viewed as more risky than government bonds, the level of risk depends on the company issuing the bond.  Bonds issued by a company like GE or Cisco may be viewed by investors as less of a default risk than a start-up company or company that operates in a volatile industry.  The level of risk with the bond is directly related to the interest rate of the bond.  Generally, the riskier the bond the higher the interest rate. 

About Rob……...

Hi, I’m Rob Mangold. I’m the Chief Operating Officer at Greenbush Financial Group and a contributor to the Money Smart Board blog. We created the blog to provide strategies that will help our readers personally , professionally, and financially. Our blog is meant to be a resource. If there are questions that you need answered, pleas feel free to join in on the discussion or contact me directly.

Do I Have To Pay Taxes On My Inheritance?

Whenever people come into large sums of money, such as inheritance, the first question is “how much will I be taxed on this money”?  Believe it or not, money you receive from an inheritance is likely not taxable income to you.

Of course there are some caveats to this.  If the inherited money is from an estate, there is a chance the money received was already taxed at the estate level.  The current federal estate exclusion is $5,430,000 (estate taxes and the exclusion amount varies for states). Therefore, if the estate was large enough, a portion of the inheritance may have been subject to estate tax which is 40% in most cases.  That being said, whether the money was or was not taxed at the estate level, you as an individual do not have to pay income taxes on the money.

Although the inheritance itself is not taxable, you may end up paying taxes if there is appreciation after the money is inherited.  The type of account and distribution will dictate how the income will be taxed.

Basis Of Inherited Property

Typically, the basis of inherited property is the fair market value of the property on the date of the decedent’s death or the fair market value of the property on the alternate valuation date if the estate uses the alternate valuation date for valuing assets.  An estate will choose to value assets on an alternate date subsequent to the date of death if certain assets, such as stocks, have depreciated since the date of death and the estate would pay less tax using the alternate date.

What the fair market value basis means is that if you inherit stock that was originally purchased for $500 and at the date of death has appreciated to $10,000, you will have a “step-up” basis of $10,000.  If you turn around and sell the stock for $11,000, you will have a $1,000 gain and if you sell the stock for $9,000, you will have a $1,000 loss.

Inheriting a personal residence also provides for a step-up in basis but the gain or loss may be treated differently.  If no one lives in the inherited home after the date of death, it will be treated similar to the stock example above.  If you move into the home after death, any subsequent sale at a loss will not be deductible as it will be treated as your personal asset but a gain would have to be recognized and possibly taxed.  If you rent the property subsequent to inheritance, it could be treated as a trade or business which would be treated differently for tax purposes.

Inheriting An IRA or Retirement Plan Account

Please read our article “Inherited IRA’s: How Do They Work” for a more detailed explanation of the three different types of distribution options.

When you inherit a retirement account, and you are not the spouse of the decedent, in most cases you will only have one option, fully distribute the account balance 10 years following the year of the decedents death.   The SECURE Act that was passed in December 2019 dramatically change the distribution options available to non-spouse beneficiaries. See the article below: 

If you are the spouse of the of the decedent, you are able to treat the retirement account as if it was yours and not be forced to take one of the options above.  You will have to pay taxes on distributions but you do not have to start withdrawing funds immediately unless there are required minimum distributions needed.

Note: If the inherited account was an after tax account (i.e. Roth), the inheritor must choose one of the options presented above but no tax will be paid on distributions. 

Non-Qualified Annuities

Non-qualified annuities are an exception to the step-up in basis rule.  The non-spousal inheritor of a non-qualified annuity will have to take either a lump sum or receive payments over a specified time period.  If the inheritor chooses a lump sum, the portion that represents the gain (lump sum balance minus decedent’s contributions) will be taxed as ordinary income.  If the inheritor chooses a series of payments, distributions will be treated as last in, first out.  Last in, first out means that the appreciation will be distributed first and fully taxable until there is only basis left.

If the spouse inherits the annuity, they most likely have the option to treat the annuity contract as if they were the original owner.

This article concentrated on inheritance at a federal level.  There is no inheritance tax at a federal level but some states do have an inheritance tax and therefore meeting with a professional is recommended.  New York currently does not have an inheritance tax. 

About Rob……...

Hi, I’m Rob Mangold. I’m the Chief Operating Officer at Greenbush Financial Group and a contributor to the Money Smart Board blog. We created the blog to provide strategies that will help our readers personally , professionally, and financially. Our blog is meant to be a resource. If there are questions that you need answered, pleas feel free to join in on the discussion or contact me directly.

The Process Of Buying A House

Buying a house can be a fun and exciting experience but it’s also one of the most important financial decisions that you are going to make during your lifetime.  This article is designed to help home buyer’s understand:

• The home buying process from start to finish

• The parties involved in the process (real estate agent, attorney, bank, etc.)

• Common pitfalls to avoid

• What to expect when applying for a mortgage

• How to calculate the amount of your down payment

Owning Versus Renting

You first have to determine if owning a house is the right financial decision for you.  Society wires us to think that owning a house is automatically better than renting but that is not necessarily true in all situations.  From a pure dollar and cents standpoint, it may make sense to keep renting given your personal situation.  We typically tell clients if there is a fair chance that they may need to sell their house within the next 5 years, in many cases it may make sense to keep renting as opposed to buying a house given all of the upfront costs associated with purchasing a house.  It takes a while to recoup closing costs and when you go to sell your house you will most like have to pay your real estate agent 5% - 6% of the selling price.

Determine How Much You Can Afford

Before you even start looking at houses you have to determine two things:

• The down payment and closing costs

• The amount of the monthly mortgage payment that fits into your budget

There is no point in looking at $300,000 houses if you cannot afford the down payment or the monthly mortgage payment so the initial step involves determining what you can afford.

Calculating Your Closing Costs

Closing costs are in addition to your required “down payment”.  First time home buyers often make the mistake of just using the 5% down or 10% down as a rule of thumb for their total upfront cost for buying a house. They often forget about closing costs which can add an additional 2% - 5% of the purchase price of the house to the amount due at closing.  Closing costs include:

Discount Points:  An up-front fee that you can choose to pay if you want to reduce the interest rate on your loan.

Origination Charge:  Fee for processing your mortgage application, pulling credit reports, verifying financial information, and creating the loan

Rate-lock Fee:  If you choose to lock in your interest rate beyond a certain period of time

Other Lender Fees:  Document preparation fee, processing fee, application fee, and underwriting fees

Appraisal & Inspection Fees:  Fees for the lender to inspect and appraise the value of the house

Title Services:  Fee charged by the title agent to determine the rightful ownership of the house you are buying and some lenders require title insurance.

Government Recording Charges:  Every home buyer must pay these charges for the state and local agencies to record the loans and title documents

Transfer Taxes:  Depending on where you live, your state, county or city may charge a tax when the ownership of a home is transferred

Escrow Deposit:  At the closing of your home loan, if you decide to escrow or if an escrow is required, there will be an initial deposit in your escrow account to pay for future recurring charges associated with your home, such as property taxes, school taxes, and insurance.  You will typically need to pay for the first year of your homeowner’s insurance in full before your home loan closes.

Daily Interest Rate Charge:  This charge covers the amount of interest that you will owe on your home loan from the time your loan closes to the first day of your regular mortgage billing cycle.

Flood Insurance:  This is a form of hazard insurance that is required by lenders to cover properties in flood zones.

Attorney Fees:  Fees typically vary from $300 - $1,000.  Most individuals will work with a real estate attorney to review and negotiate the purchase agreement on their behalf. These fees are sometimes paid to the attorney prior to the closing.

As you can see there are a number of fees that you have to be prepared to pay in addition to the down payment required by the lender.  Lenders are required by law to give you a “good faith estimate” (GFE) of what the closing costs on your home will be within three days of when you apply for a loan.  However, these are just estimates and many of the fees listing on the GFE can legally change by up to 10%, potentially adding thousands of dollars to your final closing cost bill.   A day before your closing the lender should provide you with a copy of your HUD-1 settlement statement, which outlines all of the closing fees.

Calculating Your Down Payment

The amount of your down payment will vary based on the type of loan that you received to purchase your house.  The three main types of home loans are:

• FHA Loan

• Conventional Mortgage

• VA Loan (Veterans Affairs)

FHA Loan: FHA stands for Federal Housing Administration.  The loans are made by banks but they are guaranteed by the FHA which added additional protection for the lender.  FHA loans come with a minimum down payment of 3.5% which make them very popular.  With these loans borrowers pay PMI (private mortgage insurance) premiums both upfront and each year until the loan is paid down to a specified level.  Loan limits vary by housing type and county.  These loans tend to favor low to middle income borrowers who do not have a means to make the traditional 10% - 20% down payment at closing.

Conventional Mortgage:  Minimum down payment varies from 5% - 20%.  Borrowers that put down less than 20% will have to pay PMI (private mortgage insurance).  Conventional mortgages typically require a higher FICO score than FHA loans.  These loans tend to favor borrowers with higher credit scores and have enough cash on hand to make a sizable down payment.

VA Loan:  VA loans are available only to veterans.  The greatest benefit of these loans is they require no down payment and they allow qualified borrowers to purchase a home without the need for mortgage insurance.   VA loans also tend to have more flexible and forgiving requirements.  The VA charges a mandatory Fund Fee of 2.15% for regular military and 2.40% for Reserve/Guard on purchase loans.Let’s bring it all together in an example.  If you anticipate on buying a house for $200,000 and you plan on taking an FHA loan, the amount that you will need to save for the closing will be in the range of $11,000 - $17,000 (3.5% for the down payment and 2% - 5% for the closing costs).  This calculation will obviously vary based on the type of loan you plan on taking to purchase your house.

Determine what your monthly mortgage payment

After you have determined how much you need to save to meet the upfront cost of purchasing a house, the next step is to determine the monthly mortgage payment that fits into your budget.

Step 1:  Establish your current monthly and annual budget.  There is no way to determine what you can afford if you have no idea where you are now from an income and expense standpoint.  Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself when listing your expenses.  The last thing you want to do is underestimate your expenses, buy a house you cannot afford, and then go through a foreclosure.   You will also have to factor in additional expenses into your budget as if you owned the house today such as lawn care, snow removal, appliances, and maintenance expense.  As a renter you may not have any of these expenses now but as soon as you own a house, now when something breaks you have to pay to fix it.  Homeownership is often times more expensive than most individuals anticipate.

Step 2:  Based on your current monthly income and expenses, how much is left over to satisfy a monthly mortgage payment?  The general rule is your monthly mortgage payment (including property taxes, PMI, and association fees) should not exceed 32% of your monthly gross income.  Tip: Leave some extra room in your budget for life’s unexpected surprises. For example, furnace need to be replaced, dishwasher brakes, spouse loses a job, plumbing issues, etc.

Step 3:  Use an online mortgage calculator to determine the loan amount that meets your estimated monthly mortgage payment.  Do not forget to take into account property taxes, school taxes, association fees, PMI, and homeowners insurance when reaching your estimated monthly payment.

The parties involved in the home buying process 

There are a lot of different professionals that you will interact with during the process of purchasing your house.   It’s important to understand who is involved, what their role is in the process, and how they are compensated.

Buyer & Seller: This is pretty self-explanatory.  Most buyers and sellers work through realtors and attorneys to complete the real estate transaction so there is typically little or no direct interaction between the buyer and the seller.  However, in a “for sale by owner”, the buyer or the buyer’s realtor/attorney will be in direct communication with the seller since there is no real estate agent on the sellers side.

Real Estate Agent (Realtor):  Real estate agents are important partners when you are buying a house.  They can provide you with helpful information on homes and neighborhoods that isn’t easily accessible to the public.  Their knowledge of the home buying process, negotiation skills, and familiarity with the area you want to live in can be very valuable.  In most cases, as the buyer, it does not typically cost you anything to use a realtor because they are compensated from the commission paid by the seller of the house.

Real Estate Attorney:  Remember, buying a home is a legally binding transaction.  A real estate attorney can help you avoid some common pitfalls when purchasing your home.  The home buying process eventually results in a formal purchase agreement between the buyer and seller.  The purchase agreement is the single most important document in the transaction.  Although standard printed forms may be used, a lawyer can explain the forms and make changes and additions to reflect the buyer’s wishes. Examples are:

• What are the legal consequences if the closing does not take place?

• What happens if the inspection reveals termites, radon, or lead based paint?

• Will money be held in escrow from the seller’s proceeds to replace certain items?

How much does a real estate attorney cost?  It varies, but expect to pay somewhere in the range of $350 - $1,000.  Often times you have to pay the attorney a retainer or pay them in advance of the closing.  The amount an attorney charges is usually dependent on the level of services that they are provided to you.  Some attorneys may just be preparing the deed while other attorney’s may provide you with a more complete package which can include deed preparation, title examination, purchase agreement review, and lender work.   Make sure you fully understand how the attorney’s fee structure works and it often helps to ask your professional network or friends for attorney’s that they have worked with and would recommend.

Bank / Credit Union:  Most home buyers need a mortgage to finance the purchase of their house.  It is recommended that you contact a few banks and credit unions in your area to compare interest rates, closing costs, and fees associated with the issuance of your mortgage.  Similar to selecting a real estate attorney we strongly recommend asking your professional network (accountant, investment advisor) for lenders that they recommend working with.  You will have a lot of interaction with the lender throughout the home buying process and working with a lender that makes the underwriting process as smooth as possible will make the overall home buying experience much more enjoyable.

Home Inspector:  After your offer has been accepted by the seller you will need to hire a home inspector to visit the house.  Your real estate agent will most likely recommend a home inspector to use.  The job of the home inspector is to visit the property to make sure there are no issues with the house that may not be apparent to the untrained eye.  They look for termite damage, structural issues, mold, condition of the roof, electric, plumbing, drainage, septic, radon levels, etc.  A few days after their visit they will provide you with a formal report of their inspection.   You typically pay them at the time they conduct the inspection.  The cost of a home inspection typically ranges from $250 - $600.

Insurance Broker:   You will need to obtain a homeowners insurance policy prior to the closing date.  Since you are adding a house to your insurance coverage, often times this is a good opportunity to look at your insurance coverage as a whole because insurance companies will usually offer discounts on “bundling” your insurance coverage.  Meaning that a single provider covers your house, cars, and personal umbrella policy.  The annual cost of your homeowners insurance will vary greatly depending on the value of your house and where the house is located.  For homeowners that have an escrow account associated with their mortgage, the homeowners insurance premium is typically baked into your total monthly mortgage payment , the insurance company issues the invoice directly to the bank, and the bank pays your homeowners insurance directly out of your escrow account.

Timeline: The home buying process from start to finish

Now that we have explained how to determine what you can afford and the parties involved in the home buying process it’s time to put it all together so you know what to expect step by step through the process of purchasing your new home.

Step 1:  Get prequalified for a mortgage.  You may think you can qualify for a $250,000 mortgage but you really do not know until you actually apply.  In the preapproval process you will provide some information to the bank that will be issuing your mortgage such as tax returns, statements showing investment and savings accounts, and they will usually run a credit report.    The more intense financial due diligence happens after an offer has been accepted on your house and they are actually preparing to provide you with the loan.

Step 2:  Begin looking at houses.  Most individuals at this point will hire a real estate agent to help them find and look at houses.

Step 3:  Make an offer.  Once you find the house that you want, you will have your real estate agent present the seller with your offer.  This is where the negotiation process begins.  If the seller is listing the house for $200,000, you can make an offer for whatever amount you choose. Once an offer is presented to the seller, three things can happen:

• The seller can accept it

• The seller can reject it

• The seller will counter offer

Your real estate agent can really help you in this process to determine what may be a reasonable offer.  It is usually dependent upon how long the house has been on the market, where is the property located, is there a situation that requires selling the house quickly, and what have other similar houses sold for in the area.  After making the offer you will typically receive a response within 48 hours.  The seller will sometimes give their real estate agent a range saying that they will accept less than the asking price but only to a specific threshold. In most situations the buyer and the seller meet somewhere in the middle. If the house is listed for $200K, the buyer may put in an offer for $180K and after some back and forth they eventually meet somewhere around $190K.  But that is not always the case.  If there are multiple offers on the house you could end up in a “bidding war”.  Offers are “blind bids” meaning that you and your real estate agent have no way of knowing what other people are offering the seller for the house.  Buyers are essentially making their “best guess” that their offer will win.  You may make an offer for full price only for another buyer to come in two hours later and offer $10,000 over their asking price.  You really have to lean on your real estate agent to give you some guidance based on their knowledge of the market.

Step 4: Offer accepted……now what?  Typically, purchase offers are contingent on a home inspection of the property.  Your real estate agent will usually help you arrange to have a home inspection conducted within a few days of your offer being accepted.  There are usually contingencies in your offer agreement that provides you with the chance to renegotiate your offer or withdraw it without penalty if the inspection reveals significant material damage.  If the inspector discovers issues with the house you will have to make the decision if you want to ask the seller to fix the issue prior to the closing date.  Prior to the close you will have a walk-through of the house, which gives you a chance to confirm that any agreed-upon repairs have been made.

Step 5:  Apply for a mortgage.  Now that your offer has been accepted the mortgage underwriting process will kick into high gear.  The bank will assign you a “loan officer” or “mortgage broker” to serve as the direct contact at the bank throughout the mortgage approval process.  You will provide them with the information on the house that you intend to purchase, they will send you the mortgage application with all of financial documents that they will need to formally approve you for the mortgage. The bank will also arrange for an appraiser to visit the house and provide an independent estimate of the value of the house.  After all if they are giving you a loan for $200,000, they want to make sure that house is worth at least $200,000 in case you were to stop paying the mortgage then essentially the bank would own the house and have to sell it.  You will receive a “commitment letter” from your bank once your mortgage has been formally approved.

You will need to show the bank documentation of the account that is currently holding the cash that will be used for your down payment and closing costs.  If someone gifts you money to buy your house, the person that made the gift will most likely have to sign a letter stating that it was an outright gift and not a loan.

Step 5½ : You will simultaneous engage a real estate attorney to begin working with at this time.  Your attorney will review the purchase agreement, initiate a title search and review the results, begin prepping the deed, and communicate directly with the seller’s attorney if changes or additions need to be made to the purchasing agreement.

Step 6: Set a closing date.  The closing date is the date that you will sign a huge pile of papers and the house officially becomes yours.  There is typically an “estimated closing date” set in the purchase agreement but a firm date needs to be set by the buyer, seller, attorneys, and the bank.  The seller’s real estate agent, the buyer’s real estate agent, your mortgage broker, and the attorneys on both sides will typically communicate with each other to establish the closing date.  A special note……..a lot can happen during a real estate transaction that can delay the closing date.    Issues can arise on the seller’s side or the mortgage process could take longer than expected.  In other words, even though you have a “final closing date” be prepared for the closing date to change.  If you are renting right now and have a lease, if your closing date is May 1st it’s usually recommended that you have your current lease run until May 30th or June 30th in case the closing date gets pushed back.  Real estate transactions have a lot of moving parts and a lot of unexpected things that are out of your control can happen.

Step 7:  Contact your insurance broker to establish a homeowner’s policy.  Your bank will require you to have homeowners insurance on the property.  You must pay for the policy and have it at closing.  You are free to select your own insurance carrier but the lender will typically require the insurance company issuing the policy to be a specific rating or higher.

Your insurance broker may also help you with your title insurance policy.  Many lenders will require you to have a title insurance policy at closing.  As part of the home buying process a title search should be conducted which results in a report that shows who owns the property and if there are any liens against the property.  Title insurance protects you and the lender up to the full value of the property if fraud, a lien, or faulty title is discovered after your closing.

Step 8: The day BEFORE the closing.  It is recommended that you send a reminder email to your real estate agent, attorney, and mortgage broker to confirm that everything is a “go” for the closing the next day.  You and your real estate agent should make a final inspection of the property within 24 hours prior to the closing.  In many cases, the lender will make a similar inspection before closing.  The bank that is issuing you the loan should also be able to provide you with a copy of your HUD-1, which is a long, one page document that details all of the financial activity associated with the purchase of your house.  You should review this document with your mortgage broker and/or attorney prior to the closing to make sure everything is accurate.

You will also need to confirm with your attorney/mortgage broker the amount of the certified check that you will need to bring to the closing.  A certified check is a special type of check issued by a bank that guarantees that the funds to back that check are guaranteed by the bank issuing the check.

Step 9:  The date of your closing.  You made it!!!!!! Today is the day your new house officially becomes yours.    There are two primary things that you need to bring with you to the closing:

• Certified check

• Homeowners policy and proof of payment

The actual closing is conducted by a “closing agent” who may be an employee of the lender or title company, or it may be an attorney representing you or the lender.  The lender and seller, or their representatives, and the real estate agents may or may not be at the actual closing.  It is not unusual for the parties to the transaction to complete their roles without ever meeting face to face.

For the most part, your role at closing is to review and sign the numerous documents associated with a mortgage loan.  The closing agent should explain the nature and purpose of each one and give you and your attorney an opportunity to check them before signing.

At the conclusion of the meeting you receive the keys to the house and you are officially a new homeowner.

Step 10: Begin making your monthly mortgage payments.  One of the top questions that we get is “What is an escrow account?”  You will hear that term a lot when you are going through the mortgage process.  Think of an escrow account as a separate savings account that is attached to your mortgage.  When you make a monthly mortgage payment, it is made up of a few components:

• Principal & Interest Payments: Amount applied against your actual loan

• PMI (if applicable): Mortgage insurance

• Escrow: Cash reserve to pay taxes and homeowners insurance

If my monthly mortgage payment is $2,000, only $1,100 of that amount may actually be applied against the loan. The other $900 may be used to pay my monthly PMI and the remainder is deposited to my escrow account.

When your property taxes and school taxes are due, the county that you live in will typically send those tax bills directly to the bank holding your mortgage and then the bank in turn pays those bills out of your escrow account.  The bank will typically mail the homeowners a receipt that the tax bill has been paid.  It’s basically a forced monthly savings account for your anticipated tax bills.  The same thing is true for your homeowner insurance premium payments. The bank that is holding your mortgage forecasts how much your taxes and homeowner insurance is going to be for the next 12 months and then builds those amounts into your monthly mortgage payments. The bank does not want you to lose your house because you were unable to pay your property or school taxes.  The property and school tax bills show up once a year and depending on where you live those bills can be for thousands of dollars.

If there is additional money left in your escrow account after the taxes and homeowner insurance has been paid, the bank is usually required to send a portion of that additional cash reserve to the homeowner in the form of a check.  Those are fun checks to get in the mail. 

Michael Ruger

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

How Much Money Do I Need To Save To Retire?

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This is by far the most popular question that we come across as financial planners. You may have heard some of the "rules of thumb" like “80% of your current take-home pay” or “1 million dollars”.  In reality, the answer varies greatly on an individual by individual basis.  This article will outline the procedures that we follow as financial planners to help individuals answer this very important question.

Step 1:  Estimate Your Annual Expenses In Retirement

The first step is to get a ballpark idea of what your annual expenses might look like in retirement.    The best place to start is to list your current monthly and annual expenses. Then create a separate column labeled “expenses in retirement”.  Whether you are 2 years, 10 years, or 20 years away from retirement the idea is to pretend as if you were retiring tomorrow and determining what your annual expenses might look like.  Some of your expenses in retirement will be lower, others may be higher, but most people find that a lot of their current expenses will carry over at the same level into the retirement years. This is because most people have become accustom to a certain standards of living and they intend to maintain that standard of living in retirement. Here are a few important questions that you should ask yourself when forecasting your retirement expenses:

• How much should I budget for health insurance?

• Will I have a mortgage or debt when I retire?

• Do I plan to move when I retire?

• Since I will not be working, should I budget additional expenses for vacations and hobbies?

• Will I need to keep my life insurance policies after I retire?

Step 2:  Adjust Your Retirement Expenses For Inflation

Now that you have a ballpark number of your annual expenses in retirement, you will need to adjust those expenses for inflation.  Inflation is just a fancy word for “the price of everything that we buy today will gradually go up in price over time”.  If the price of a gallon of milk today is $2 then most likely 20 years from now that same gallon of milk will cost $3.51.  A 75% increase!!   Historically inflation has grown at a rate of about 3% per year.  There are periods of time when the rate of inflation grows faster or slower but on average it grows at 3% per year.

Another way to look at inflation is $20,000 in today’s dollars will not buy the same amount of goods and services 10 years from now because inflation erodes the purchasing power of your $20,000.  If I did my annual expense planner and it tells me that I need $50,000 per year in retirement to meet all of my estimated expenses, let’s look at what adjusting that $50,000 for inflation does over different periods of time assuming a 3% rate of inflation:

Today’s Dollars 5 Years From Now 10 Years From Now 20 Years From Now

$50,000         $56,275                  $65,238                    $87,675

In the above example, if I am retiring in 10 years, and my estimated annual expenses in retirement will be $50,000 in today’s dollars, by the time I retire 10 years from now my annual expenses will increase to $65,238 per year just to stay in the same place that I am in today.  Also, inflation does not stop when you retire, it continues into the retirement years. If I am 50 today and plan to live until 90, I have to apply this inflation adjustment for 40 years.  It’s clear to see how inflation can have a significant impact on the amount that you may need to withdrawal for your account to meet you estimated expenses at a future date.

Step 3:  Gather The Information On Your Current Assets

Once you know your expenses, you now need to gather all of the information on your retirement accounts and pension plans.  You should collect the most recent statement for all of your investment accounts (401K, 403B, IRA’s, brokerage accounts, stocks, etc.), pension statements (if applicable), obtain your most recent social security statement, and gather information on the other sources of income and/or assets that may be available when you retire. Such as:

• Sale of a business

• Downsizing the primary residence

• Rental income

• Part-time employment

Step 4:  Project The Growth Of Your Retirement Assets

There are three main categories to consider when calculating the growth rate of your retirement assets:

• Annual contributions

• Withdrawals

• Investment rate of return

For annual contributions, it’s determining which accounts you plan on making deposits too each year and how much?  For most individuals, their employer sponsored retirement plan is the main source of new contributions to their retirement nest egg.   If your employer makes regular employer contributions to your retirement plan, you should factor those in as well.  For example, if I am contributing 8% of my pay into the plan and my employer is providing me with a 4% matching contributions, I would reasonably assume that I’m adding 12% of my pay to my 401(k) plan each year.

The most popular question that we get in this category is “how much should I be contributing each year to my retirement account with my employer?”  We advise employees that they should have a goal of contributing 10% of their pay each year to their retirement accounts.   This is an aggregate total between your personal contributions and the employer contributions.   Even if you cannot reach that level right now, 10%+ is the target.

Let’s move onto the next category…….withdrawals.  Pre-retirement withdrawals from retirement accounts have become much more common in recent years due largely to the rising cost of college education.  Parents will take loans from their 401K/403B plans or take early withdrawals from IRA accounts to fulfill the need for additional income during the years that their children are in college.  If part of your overall financial plan is to use your retirement accounts to pay for one-time expenses such as college, you will need to factor that into your projections.

The third variable to consider when determining the growth of your assets is the assumed annual rate of return on your investments.  There are many items to consider when determining a reasonable annual rate of return for your accounts.  Some of those considerations include:

• Time horizon to retirement

• Allocation of your portfolio (stocks vs bonds)

• Concentrated holdings (10%+ of your portfolio allocated to a single investment)

• Accumulation phase versus distribution phase

The answer to the question: “what rate of return should I expect from my retirement accounts?”, can really only be determine on a case by case basis. Using an unreasonable rate of return assumption can create a significant disconnect between your retirement projections versus what is likely to actually occur within your investment accounts.  Be careful with this step.

Step 5:  Factor In Taxes

Don’t forget about the lovely IRS.  All assets are not treated equally from a tax standpoint.  For most individuals, the majority of their retirement savings will be in pre-tax retirement vehicles such as 401(k), 403(b), and Traditional IRA’s.  That means when you take distributions from those accounts, you will realize earned income, and have to pay tax.  For example, if you have $400,000 in your 401K account and you are in the 25% tax bracket, $100,000 of that $400,000 will be lost to taxes as withdrawals are made from the account.

If you have after tax investment accounts, it’s possible that you may owe little to no taxes on withdrawals.  However, if there are unrealized investment gains built up in your after tax investment accounts then you may owe capital gains tax when liquidating positons.

Also note, you may have to pay taxes on a portion of your social security benefit.   The amount of your social security benefit that is taxable varies based on your level of income.

Step 6:  Spend Down Your Assets

In the final step, you should run long term projections to illustrate the spend down of your assets in retirement.  Here are the steps:Example

• Start with your annual after tax expense number $60,000

• Subtract social security less taxes: ($20,000)

• Subtract pension payments less taxes (if applicable): ($10,000)

• Annual Expenses Net SS and Pensions: $30,000

In the example above, this individual would need an additional $30,000 after-tax to meet their anticipated annual expenses in Year 1 of retirement.  I stress “after-tax” because if all of the retirement assets are in a pre-tax retirement account then they would need to gross up their distributions for taxes to get to the $30,000 after tax.  If it is assumed that $40,000 has to be withdrawn from an IRA each year, the 3% inflation rate is applied to the annual expenses, and the life expectancy of this individual is 20 years from the date that they retire, this individual would need to withdrawal $1,074,814 out of their retirement accounts over the next 20 years to meet their income needs.

Step 7:  Identify Multiple Solutions

There are often times multiple roads to reach a destination and the same is true when planning for retirement. If you find that you assets are falling short of the amount that is needed to sustain your expenses in retirement, you should work with a knowledgeable financial planner to identify alternative solutions.  It may help you to answer questions like:

• If I decided to work part-time in retirement how much would I have to earn?

• If I downsize my primary residence in retirement how does this impact the overall picture?

• If I can’t retire at age 63, what age can I comfortably retire at?

• What are the pros and cons of taking social security benefits prior to normal retirement age

I also encourage clients to spend time looking at their annual expenses.  If you find that your are cutting it close on income versus expenses in retirement, it's usually easier to cut expenses than it is to create more income in the retirement year. 

Michael Ruger

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

First Time Homebuyer Tips

home buyer tips

Buying your first home is one of life’s milestones that everyone should have the opportunity to experience if they choose.  Owning a home gives you a feeling of accomplishment and as you make payments a portion is going to your personal net worth rather than a landlord.  The process is exciting but one surefire piece of information that I wish I knew when buying my first home is that you will come across surprises.  Whether it be a delay in closing, an issue with financing, or closing costs being higher than expected, it is important to know that you can do all the preparation possible and still be hit in the face with some setbacks.

This article will not only touch on some of the important considerations when buying your first home but will give examples of possible setbacks and how to avoid them.

Know Your Number

The most important piece of information to have when purchasing your home is how much you can spend.  The purchase of your home should not be the only goal to consider.  All of your other financial objectives such as paying off debt (i.e. college and unsecured) and saving for retirement must be taken into consideration.  Also, it is recommended you have an emergency fund in place that would cover at least 4 months of your fixed expenses in case something happens with your job or some other event occurs.  Knowing your number does not only include what you can afford today but how much you can afford monthly moving forward.  If your monthly cash flow becomes dangerously low or negative with the addition of a mortgage payment (including mortgage/property taxes/homeowners), the house may be too expensive.

NOTE:  Just because you are preapproved for a certain amount does not mean you need to spend that amount.

Choose An Agent You Trust

You will be spending a lot of time with your agent so choose them wisely.  It should be someone you get along with and someone you can trust will look out for your best interests.  If your agent just cares about receiving a commission, they may push you to purchase a home before looking at all of your options or buying a home you can’t afford.  Remember, you are the client and therefore should be treated as such.

NOTE:  Just because you never physically cut a check to your real estate agent doesn’t mean you aren’t paying them.   In a typical transaction the seller will pay the commissions.  An agreed upon percentage will come out of the sales proceeds and go to both real estate agents (the buyer’s and the seller’s) and therefore the cost is built into the price you pay.

Use Your Agent As An Asset

Your agent is likely much more knowledgeable about home buying than you so use that knowledge to your benefit.  The agent should be able to help you value homes and determine whether the house is fairly priced.  Ask them as many questions as possible throughout the entire process.

On The Fence

If you are on the fence whether or not to buy a home then take your time.  If you may relocate because of your job or family don’t jump into purchasing a home.  It is not worth paying the closing costs and going through the hassle of home buying if you may move in the near future.  We typically use the “5 Year Rule” when making the determination.  If you don’t see yourself being in the house for at least 5 years you should consider whether or not you will get your money back when you sell.

Compare Lenders

The banking industry is extremely competitive and it is worth shopping around for the best offer when choosing a mortgage provider.  If you aren’t comfortable with numbers, don’t be afraid to ask for help.  A difference of 0.10% on a 30 year mortgage could be the difference of thousands of dollars wasted on interest.

Don’t Cheap Out On Homeowners

Don’t choose your homeowners policy based on price.  Of course price is one of the considerations but it is not the only one.  Make sure your policy is the most comprehensive you can comfortably afford as the cost of increased premiums is likely much less than the cost of coming out of pocket for something not covered.  Remember, insurance companies, like banks, are in a competitive industry so shop around.

Down Payment

Most lenders require a 20% down payment of the home value to avoid paying additional costs.  This means if the value of the home is $200,000, you will have to pay $40,000 out of pocket!  Most lenders offer Federal Housing Administration (FHA) loans that allow you to put down as little as 3.5%.  If you choose this type of loan you also have to purchase Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI).  This will be a cost added to your mortgage payment until the value of your home is adequate enough to remove the PMI.  It is important to factor this in as a cost similar to interest because a 5% interest rate could quickly look like 6-7% if you have to pay PMI.

Closing And Other Additional Costs

There are a lot of out of pocket costs to consider when purchasing a home.  Examples of these costs are listed below.  An important piece of knowing your number is to consider all the costs that may come up during the process.

• Loan Origination Fee

• Attorney Fees

• Property Taxes

• Home Owners Insurance

• Appraisal Fee

• Inspection Fee

• Title Insurance

• Recording Fee

• Government Recording Charges

• Credit Report Fee

• Flood Determination Fee

How To Help Avoid Certain Complications

Situation:  I bought a house at the top of my budget that I thought was move in ready but needs repairs.

Recommendation:  Choose an inspector that has a great reputation and knows the location.  There may be issues that are common to the area that one inspector may be more likely to identify.  Also, bring a contractor or someone of similar background for a walk through.  Repairs can be extremely costly and if you purchased a home at the top end of your budget you may not be able to afford certain fixes.  It should be known that all issues cannot be foreseen but taking the necessary steps to diminish these situations will not hurt.  Don’t purchase a home that will bankrupt you if repairs need to be done.

Situation:  I bought a home I can’t fill.

Recommendation:  Closing costs and repairs won’t be the only out of pocket expenses.  Complete a summary of items you think you may need to buy after the purchase.  This may include furniture, appliances, décor, and fixtures.  In these situations it is always better to overestimate.

Situation:  My lease is up in a month and I would like to purchase a home.

Recommendation:  Purchasing a home is something that requires time and planning.  The home will likely be the largest purchase you’ve ever made (depending on the college you choose) so it is not something to rush.  If you are thinking of moving after your lease is up or when you relocate jobs, start planning as soon as possible.  Feeling forced into purchasing something as important as a home will likely lead to regrets. 

About Rob……...

Hi, I’m Rob Mangold. I’m the Chief Operating Officer at Greenbush Financial Group and a contributor to the Money Smart Board blog. We created the blog to provide strategies that will help our readers personally , professionally, and financially. Our blog is meant to be a resource. If there are questions that you need answered, pleas feel free to join in on the discussion or contact me directly.