Can I Negotiate A Car Lease Buyout?

The short answer is "yes", but the approach that you take will most likely determine whether or not you are successful at purchasing your vehicle for a lower price than the amount listed in the lease agreement. When you lease a car, the lease agreement typically includes an amount that you can purchase the car for at the end of the lease. That amount is essentially a guess by the bank that is providing the financing for the lease as to what the future value of your vehicle will be at the end of the lease.

Lease Buyout Calculation

Step number one in the negotiation process is to determine what your vehicle is worth. Did the bank guess right or wrong? If the purchase amount in your lease agreement is $25,000 but you find that the vehicle, based on current market conditions, is only worth $18,000, you probably have room to negotiate the purchase price of your vehicle but you have to do your homework. Compare your vehicle's purchase price to the retail value of local auto dealers. If you can show the bank that there is a local auto dealer trying to sell the exact make and model of your leased car with similar mileage, the bank will be more likely to accept a lower purchase price realizing that they guessed wrong.

Deal Directly With The Bank

You may have noticed that I continue to reference the "bank" in the negotiation process and not the "dealer". This is intentional. Some leasing banks allow dealers to increase the cost of the lease buyout to make a profit. Dealers can also charge document fees, which are taxable in most states. It may also be advantageous to line up your own financing for the lease purchase amount before entering into the negotiation process. If the dealer arranges the financing for you, it can sometimes increase your interest rate to make more money on the purchase. By dealing directly with the leasing bank you can cut out these additional costs.

You Make The Offering Price

Start by making an offer to the leasing bank based on your market research. Also make sure you contact the leasing bank well in advance of the lease "turn-in date". The bank may not be able to provide you with an immediate response to your offer so give yourself plenty of time for the negotiation process to work.

About Michael.........

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog. I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Can I Use My 401K or IRA To Buy A House?

The most difficult part of buying a house is coming up with the down payment. This leads to the question, "Can I access cash in my retirement accounts to help toward the down payment on my house?". The short answer is in most cases, "Yes". The next important questions is "Is it a good idea to take a withdrawal from my retirement account for the down payment given all of the taxes and penalties that I would have to pay?" This article aims to answer both of those questions and provide you with withdrawal strategies to help you avoid big tax consequences and early withdrawal penalties.

401(k) Withdrawal Options Are Not The Same As IRA's

First you have to acknowledge that different types of retirement accounts have different withdrawal options available. The withdrawal options for a down payment on a house from a 401(k) plan are not the same a the withdrawal options from a Traditional IRA. There is also a difference between Traditional IRA's and Roth IRA's.

401(k) Withdrawal Options

There may be loan or withdrawal options available through your employer sponsored retirement plan. I specifically say "may" because each company's retirement plan is different. You may have all or none of the options available to you that will be presented in this article. It all depends on how your company's 401(k) plan is designed. You can obtain information on your withdrawal options from the plan's Summary Plan Description also referred to as the "SPD".

Taking a 401(k) loan.............

The first option is a 401(k) loan.  Some plans allow you to borrow 50% of your vested balance in the plan up to a maximum of $50,000 in a 12 month period. Taking a loan from your 401(k) does not trigger a taxable event and you are not hit with the 10% early withdrawal penalty for being under the age of 59.5.  401(k) loans, like other loans, change interest but you are paying that interest to your own account so it is essentially an interest free loan. Typically 401(k) loans have a maximum duration of 5 years but if the loan is being used toward the purchase of a primary residence, the duration of the loan amortization schedule can be extended beyond 5 years if the plan's loan specifications allow this feature.

Note of caution, when you take a 401(k) loan, loan payments begin immediately after the loan check is received. As a result, your take home pay will be reduced by the amount of the loan payments. Make sure you are able to afford both the 401(k) loan payment and the new mortgage payment before considering this option.

The other withdrawal option within a 401(k) plan, if the plan allows, is a hardship distribution. As financial planners, we strongly recommend against hardship distributions for purposes of accumulating the cash needed for a down payment on your new house. Even though a hardship distribution gives you access to your 401(k) balance while you are still working, you will get hit with taxes and penalties on the amount withdrawn from the plan. Unlike IRA's which waive the 10% early withdrawal penalty for first time homebuyers, this exception is not available in 401(k) plans. When you total up the tax bill and the 10% early withdrawal penalty, the cost of this withdrawal option far outweighs the benefits.

If You Have A Roth IRA.......Read This.....

Roth IRA's can be one of the most advantageous retirement accounts to access for the down payment on a new house. With Roth IRA's, you make after tax contributions to the account, and as long as the account has been in existence for 5 years and you are over the age of 59� all of the earnings are withdrawn from the account 100% tax free. If you withdraw the investment earnings out of the Roth IRA before meeting this criteria, the earnings are taxed as ordinary income and a 10% early withdrawal penalty is assessed on the earnings portion of the account.

What very few people know is if you are under the age of 59� you have the option to withdraw just your after-tax contributions and leave the earnings in your Roth IRA. By doing so, you are able to access cash without taxation or penalty and the earnings portion of your Roth IRA will continue to grow and can be distributed tax free in retirement.

The $10,000 Exclusion From Traditional IRA's.......

Typically if you withdraw money out of your Traditional IRA prior to age 59� you have to pay ordinary income tax and a 10% early withdrawal penalty on the distribution. There are a few exceptions and one of them is the "first time homebuyer" exception. If you are purchasing your first house, you are allowed to withdrawal up to $10,000 from your Traditional IRA and avoid the 10% early withdrawal penalty. You will still have to pay ordinary income tax on the withdrawal but you will avoid the early withdrawal penalty. The $10,000 limit is an individual limit so if you and your spouse both have a traditional IRA, you could potentially withdrawal up to $20,000 penalty free.

Helping your child to buy a house..........

Here is a little known fact. You do not have to be the homebuyer. You can qualify for the early withdrawal exemption if you are helping your spouse, child, grandchild, or parent to buy their first house.

Be careful of the timing rules..........

There is a very important timing rule associated with this exception. The closing must take place within 120 day of the date that the withdrawal is taken from the IRA. If the closing happens after that 120 day window, the full 10% early withdrawal penalty will be assessed. There is also a special rollover rule for the first time homebuyer exemption which provides you with additional time to undo the withdrawal if need be. Typically with IRA's you are only allowed 60 days to put the money back into the IRA to avoid taxation and penalty on the IRA withdrawal. This is called a "60 Day Rollover". However, if you can prove that the money was distributed from the IRA with the intent to be used for a first time home purchase but a delay or cancellation of the closing brought you beyond the 60 day rollover window, the IRS provides first time homebuyers with a 120 window to complete the rollover to avoid tax and penalties on the withdrawal.

Don't Forget About The 60 Day Rollover Option

Another IRA withdrawal strategy that is used as a “bridge solution” is a “60 Day Rollover”. The 60 Day Rollover option is available to anyone with an IRA that has not completed a 60 day rollover within the past 12 months. If you are under the age of 59.5 and take a withdrawal from your IRA but you put the money back into the IRA within 60 days, it’s like the withdrawal never happened. We call it a “bridge solution” because you have to have the cash to put the money back into your IRA within 60 days to avoid the taxes and penalty. We frequently see this solution used when a client is simultaneously buying and selling a house. It’s often the intent that the seller plans to use the proceeds from the sale of their current house for the down payment on their new house. Unfortunately due to the complexity of the closing process, sometimes the closing on the new house will happen prior to the closing on the current house. This puts the homeowner in a cash strapped position because they don’t have the cash to close on the new house.

As long as the closing date on the house that you are selling happens within the 60 day window, you would be able to take a withdrawal from your IRA, use the cash from the IRA withdrawal for the closing on their new house, and then return the money to your IRA within the 60 day period from the house you sold. Unlike the “first time homebuyer” exemption which carries a $10,000 limit, the 60 day rollover does not have a dollar limit.

About Michael.........

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Required Minimum Distribution Tax Strategies

If you are turning age 72 this year, this article is for you.  You will most likely have to start taking required minimum distributions from your retirement accounts.  This article will outline:

• Deadlines to take your RMD

• Tax implications

• Strategies to reduce your tax bill

How is my RMD calculated?

The IRS has a tax table that determines the amount that you have to take out of your retirement accounts each year. To determine your RMD amount you will need to obtain the December 31st balance in your retirement accounts, find your age on the IRS RMD tax table, and divide your 12/31 balance by the number listed next to your age in the tax table.

Exceptions to the RMD requirement........

There are two exceptions. First, Roth IRA’s do not require RMD’s.  Second, if you are still working, you maintain a balance in your current employer’s retirement plan, and you are not a 5%+ owner of the company, you do not need to take an RMD from that particular retirement account until you terminate employment with the company.  Which leads us to the first tax strategy.  If you are age 72 or older and you are still working, you can typically rollover your traditional IRA’s and former employer 401(k)/403(b) accounts into your current employers retirement plan.  By doing so, you avoid the requirement to take RMD’s from those retirement accounts outside of your current employers retirement plan and you avoid having to pay taxes on those required minimum distributions.  If you are 5%+ owner of the company, you are out of luck. The IRS will still require you to take the RMD from your retirement account even though you are still “employed” by the company.

Deadlines

In the year that you turn 72, if you do not meet one of the exceptions listed above, you will have a very important decision to make.  You have the option to take the RMD by 12/31 of that year or wait until the beginning of the following tax year.  For your first RMD, the deadline to take the RMD is April 1st of the year following the year that you turn age 72.   For example, if you turn 72 on June 2017, you will not be required to take your first RMD until April 1, 2018.  If you worked full time from January 2017 – June 2017, it may make sense for you to delay your first RMD until January 2018 because your income will most likely be higher in 2017 because you worked for half of the year.  When you take a RMD, like any other distribution from a pre-tax retirement account, it increases the amount of your taxable income for the year.  From a pure tax standpoint it usually makes snese to realize income from retirement accounts in years that you are in a lower tax bracket.

SPECIAL NOTE:  If you decided to delay your first RMD until after December 31st, you will be required to take two RMD’s in that year.  One prior to April 1st and the second before Decemeber 31st.  The April 1st rule only applies to your first RMD.  You should consult with your accountant to determine the best RMD strategy given your personal income tax situation.  For all tax years following the year that you turn age 72, the RMD deadline is December 31st.

VERY IMPORTANT:  Do not miss your RMD deadline.  The IRS hits you with a lovely 50% excise tax if you fail to take your RMD by the deadline.  If you were due a $4,000 RMD and you miss the deadline, the IRS is going to levy a $2,000 excise tax against you.

Contributions to charity to avoid taxes

 Another helpful tax strategy, if you make contributions to a charity, a church, or not-for-profit organization, you have the option with IRA’s to direct all or a portion of your RMD directly to these organization. In doing so, you satisfy your RMD but avoid having to pay income tax on the distribution from the IRA.  The number one rule here, the distribution must go directly from your IRA account to the not-for-profit organization.    At no point during this transaction can the owner of the IRA take possession of cash from the RMD otherwise the full amount will be taxable to the owner of the IRA.  Typically the custodian of your IRA will have to issue and mail a third party check directly to the not-for-profit organization. 

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

The #1 Question To Ask Yourself Before Selling A Stock

When is the right time to sell an investment? It's a tough decision that individuals have a difficult time making but it's one of the most important decisions that you will have to make as an investor. Often time the decision to "buy" an investment is much easier.  You gather information on a given investment, look at the trends in the market acting on that investment, assess the risk versus reward trade off, and you put your strategy to work. Deciding to sell has a lot more emotions involved which frequently causes investors to make the wrong decision.

When do I sell a big winner?

First scenario is "the rocket ship". You purchased a stock and the stock price has gone through the roof. It's made you a ton of money on paper, you proudly boast to your friends and co-workers about the price that you bought it at, and in certain instances it has been a life changing financial event. The mistake investors make here is they get into what we call "the teddy bear syndrome".

Teddy bear syndrome.....

Have you ever tried to take a teddy bear away from a five year old......good luck. As adults, we often fall into the same behavioral pattern with very successful investments. Individuals typically have a strong emotional attachment to their most successful investments. But you will frequently hear many legendary investment managers make comments like: "Investment decisions are not emotional decisions. You have to remove your emotions from the decision-making process." Let's say you bought $10,000 of XYZ stock at $10 per share and five years later it's now selling at $890 per share turning your $10,000 into $890,000. Do you sell some of it, maybe all of it?

Here is the key question........

"If you had that $890,000 in cash in your hand today, would you invest all of it back into XYZ stock at $890 per share?"

Most people would say "No!! That's crazy. I would diversify that $890,000 across a number of holdings and the stock has already gone up so much". Continuing to hold a stock is the same decision as buying a stock. But doing nothing is easier because we feel like we are not making a decision, we are just "continuing to hold". Remember, it's easy to sell a stock that has lost money. It's much more difficult to sell a stock that produced a gain. Of course, this brings up the question of how do you find the right stocks to invest in?

"If I sell the stock, I'll have to pay tax on the gain."

Question: Would you rather pay taxes on a gain or lose money? Usually if you are paying taxes it means that you are making money. If I sold the stock holding in the example above, I would have an $880,000 long term capital gain at a minimum would pay around $132,000 in long term capital gains tax at 15%. This would leave me with $758,000 cash in hand from a $748,000 gain plus $10,000 original investment. What if instead of selling I continue to hold the stock and to no fault of company XYZ the economy goes into a recession? The stock goes from $890 a share to $500 a share. Now my total investment is worth $500,000 instead of $890,000. It's still a good investment because I bought it at $10,000 and it's still worth $500,000 but if I sold it at $500 per share I would still pay tax on the gain, now a smaller amount of gain, and be left with around $425,000. That poor decision cost me $333,000 after tax.

The fallen star

Most investors have been here at one point or another. You purchased a stock that rose in value dramatically but for whatever reason the stock lost all of its early investment gains and your investment is now underwater. Many investors will say “It’s a good long term holding so I’m just going to wait for it to come back.” While we are all familiar with the buy and hold strategy, there is a risk and opportunity cost with this strategy. The risk being that it may never come back to its original value. The opportunity cost is the money invested in that underperforming company could be growing somewhere else instead of just “waiting for it to come back”.

You must ask yourself the same key question that was listed above: “If I had that money in my hand today, would I invest all of it in that stock?” If the answer is “no”, you should probably sell some or all of it. Do not hold a stock solely based on a target share price. I will hear people say, “Well I bought it at $55 per share so I’m going to wait until it at least gets back to that price.” That is not an investment strategy. You must look at the fundamentals of the company, their competitors, global market conditions, company management, the company’s strategy, and their financials to really come up with a price target for the stock.

The inherited gem

It's a common occurrence that individuals will inherit stock from a family member and they know that family member had a strong emotional attachment to the stock because they either work for the company or they never sold a single share during their lifetime. It's easy to feel that selling the stock is in some way selling the memory of that family member. I will often hear comments like: "My dad worked for the company and held that stock for 40 years. He would be rolling in his grave right now if he knew I was thinking about selling his stock." This frequently happens because the generation before us had pension plans to support them in retirement and did not have to sell stock to supplement their income or they came from a generation that was very frugal about spending money. Your needs and circumstances are probably very different from the person that you inherited the stock from so you need to look at that investment holding from your financial standpoint.

I work for the company........

If you work for a publicly traded company then there is a good chance that you own shares of that company in an employee stock purchase plan, retirement plan, options plan, or brokerage account. Since you work for the company it usually means that you have "drank the kool-aide" and believe in the company's mission, vision, and you feel like you have more control over the fate of your investment. Remember, even though you work for that company it's still one company and attaching too much for your net worth to one investment is very risky. It's even more risky for employees because if something negatively impacts the company not only is your employment at risk but so is your total net worth if a large portion of your investment portfolio is tied to the company that you work for. Make sure you periodically calculate a total of all your investment holdings and compare that to the amount invested in your company's stocks to make sure you stay balanced in your overall investment approach.

Ask yourself the easy question.......

While making the decision to buy, sell, or hold an investment is not always an easy one. Finding the right answer may be as easy as asking yourself: "If the amount invested in that stock was in cash and in my hand today, would I invest 100% of it back into that stock holding?"

About Michael.........

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Tax Deductions For College Savings

Did you know that if you are resident of New York State there are tax deductions waiting for you in the form of a college savings account?  As a resident of NYS you are allowed to take a NYS tax deduction for contributions to a NYS 529 Plan up to $5,000 for a single filer or $10,000 for married filing joint.   These limits are hard dollar thresholds so it does not matter how many kids or grandchildren you have. 

529 Accounts

529 accounts are one of the most tax efficient ways to save for college. You receive a state income tax deduction for contributions and all of the earnings are withdrawn tax free if used for a qualified education expense.  These accounts can only be used for a college degree but they can be used toward an associate’s degree, bachelor’s degree, masters, or doctorate.  You can name whoever you want as a beneficiary including yourself.  More commonly, we see parents set these accounts up for their children or grandparents for the grandchildren.

Can they go to college in any state?

If you setup a NYS 529 account, the beneficiary can go to college anywhere in the United States. It’s not limited to just colleges in New York.  As the owner of the account you can change the beneficiary on the account whenever you choose or close the account at your discretion.

What if they don't go to college?

The question we usually get is “what if they don’t go to college?”  If you have a 529 account for a beneficiary that does not end up going to college you have a few choices.  You can change the beneficiary listed on the account to another child or even yourself.  You can also decide to just liquidate the account and receive a check.  If the account is closed and the balance is not used for a qualified college expense then you as the owner receive your contributions back tax and penalty free.  However, you will pay ordinary income tax and a 10% penalty on just the earnings portion of the account.

What if my child receives a scholarship?

There is a special withdrawal exception for scholarship awards. They do not want to penalize you because the beneficiary did well in high school or is a star athlete so they allow you to make a withdrawal from the 529 account equal to the amount of the scholarship. You receive your contributions tax free, you pay ordinary income tax on the earnings, but you avoid the 10% penalty for not using the account toward a qualified college expense.

Don't make this mistake.............

We often see individuals making the mistake of setting up a 529 account in another state because “their advisor told them to do so”.   You are completely missing out on a good size NYS tax deduction because you only get credit for NYS 529 contributions.  A little-known fact is that you can rollover a 529 with another state into a NYS 529 account and that rollover amount will count toward your $5,000 / $10,000 deduction limit for the year.  If a client has $30,000 in a 529 account outside of NYS we typically advise them to roll it over in $10,000 pieces over a three year period to maximize the $10,000 per year NYS tax deduction. 

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Social Security Loophole: Age 62+ With Kids In High School

There is a little known loophole in the social security system for parents that are age 62 or older with children still in high school or younger.  Since couples are having children later in life this situation is becoming more common and it could equal big dollars for families that are aware of this social security filing strategy.

Here is how it works.  If you are age 62 or older and you have children under that age of 18,  they can collect a social security benefit based on your earnings history equal to half of the parents social security benefit at normal retirement age. This amount could equal as much as $16,122 per year for one child for higher income earners. If you have multiple children the total annual amount paid to your family members could equal between 150% to $180% of your normal retirement benefit which could be in excess of $40,000 per year depending on your earnings history.

There are some key considerations.  First, your children cannot collect on this “family benefit” until you have begun to collect your social security benefit.  You can turn on your social security benefit as early as age 62 but they reduce the monthly amount that you receive if you turn on the benefit prior to your normal retirement age.  However, it may make sense to do so depending on the amount of the family benefit paid and the duration of the benefit. If you wait until normal retirement age, you will receive a slightly higher social security benefit for yourself, but all of the social security dollars that could have been paid to your children is lost.

Second, if you are still working and your earned income exceeds certain thresholds this filing strategy may not be advantageous due to the earned income penalty.  They reduce your social security benefit by $1 for every $2 earned over a given threshold ($16,920 in 2017). Not only is your social security benefit reduce but also the benefit to your dependents.

Due to these restrictions, this filing strategy yields that greatest benefit to parents that are either fully or partially retired, age 62 or older, with a child or children below the age of 18.

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Who Pays The Tax On A Cash Gift?

This question comes up a lot when a parent makes a cash gift to a child or when a grandparent gifts to a grandchild.  When you make a cash gift to someone else, who pays the tax on that gift?  The short answer is “typically no one does”.    Each individual has a federal “lifetime gift tax exclusion” of $5,400,000 which means that I would have to give away $5.4 million dollars before I would owe “gift tax” on a gift.  For married couples, they each have a $5.4 million dollar exclusion so they would have to gift away $10.8M before they would owe any gift tax. When a gift is made, the person making the gift does not pay tax and the person receiving the gift does not pay tax below those lifetime thresholds.

“But I thought you could only gift $15,000 per year per person?”  The $15,000 per year amount is the IRS “gift exclusion amount” not the “limit”. You can gift $15,000 per year to any number of people and it will not count toward your $5.4M lifetime exclusion amount.  A married couple can gift $30,000 per year to any one person and it will not count toward their $10.8M lifetime exclusion.  If you do not plan on making gifts above your lifetime threshold amount you do not have to worry about anyone paying taxes on your cash gifts.

Let’s look at an example.  I’m married and I decide to gift $20,000 to each of my three children.  When I make that gift of $60,000 ($20K x 3) I do not owe tax on that gift and my kids do not owe tax on the gift.  Also, that $60,000 does not count toward my lifetime exclusion amount because it’s under the $28K annual exclusion for a married couple to each child.

In the next example, I’m single and I gift $1,000,000 my neighbor. I do not owe tax on that gift and my neighbor does not owe any tax on the gift because it is below my $5.4M threshold. However, since I made a gift to one person in excess of my $15,000 annual exclusion, I do have to file a gift tax return when I file my taxes that year acknowledging that I made a gift $985,000 in excess of my annual exclusion.  This is how the IRS tracks the gift amounts that count against my $5.4M lifetime exclusion.

Important note: This article speaks to the federal tax liability on gifts. If you live in a state that has state income tax, your state’s gift tax exclusion limits may vary from the federal limits.

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Small Business Owners: How To Lower The Cost of Health Insurance

As an owner of a small business myself, I’ve had a front row seat to the painful rise of health insurance premiums for our employees over the past decade.   Like most of our clients, we evaluate our plan once a year and determine whether or not we should make a change.  Everyone knows the game.  After running on this hamster wheel for the past decade it led me on a campaign to consult with experts in the health insurance industry to find a better solution for both our firm and for our clients.

The Goal: Find a way to keep the employee health benefits at their current level while at the same time cutting the overall cost to the company.  For small business owners reducing the company’s outlay for health insurance costs is a challenge. In many situations, small businesses are the typical small fish in a big pond. As a small fish, they frequently receive less attention from the brokerage community which is more focused on obtaining and maintaining larger plans.

Through our research, we found that there are two key items that can lead to significant cost savings for small businesses.  First, understanding how the insurance market operates.  Second, understanding the plan design options that exist when restructuring the health insurance benefits for your employees.

Small Fish In A Big Pond

I guess it came as no surprise that there was a positive correlation between the size of the insurance brokerage firm and their focus on the large plan market.  Large plans are generally defined as 100+ employees.  Smaller employers we found were more likely to obtain insurance through their local chambers of commerce, via a “small business solution teams” within a larger insurance brokerage firm, or they sent their employees directly to the state insurance exchange.

Myth #1:  Since I’m a small business, if I get my health insurance plan through the Chamber of Commerce it will be cheaper.   I unfortunately discovered that this was not the case in most scenarios.  If you are an employer with between 1 – 100 employees you are a “community rated plan”. This means that the premium amount that you pay for a specific plan with a specific provider is the same regardless of whether you have 2 employees or 99 employee because they do not look at your “experience rating” (claims activity) to determine your premium.  This also means that it’s the same premium regardless of whether it’s through the Chamber, XYZ Health Insurance Brokers, or John Smith Broker.  Most of the brokers have access to the same plans sponsored by the same larger providers in a given geographic region.  This was not always the case but the Affordable Care Act really standardized the underwriting process.

The role of your insurance broker is to help you to not only shop the plan once a year but to evaluate the design of your overall health insurance solution.  Since small companies usually equal smaller premium dollars for brokers it was not uncommon for us to find that many small business owners just received an email each year from their broker with the new rates, a form to sign to renew, and a “call me with any questions”.   Small business owners are usually extremely busy and often times lack the HR staff to really look under the hood of their plan and drive the changes needed to improve the plan from a cost standpoint.  The way the insurance brokerage community gets paid is they typically receive a percentage of the annual premiums paid by your company.  From talking with individuals in the industry, it’s around 4%.  So if a company pays $100,000 per year in premiums for all of their employees, the insurance broker is getting paid $4,000 per year.  In return for this compensation the broker is supposed to be advocating for your company.  One would hope that for $4,000 per year the broker is at least scheduling a physical meeting with the owner or HR staff to review the plan each year and evaluate the plan design options.

Remember, you are paying your insurance broker to advocate for you and the company.  If you do not feel like they are meeting your needs, establishing a new relationship may be the start of your cost savings.   There also seemed to be a general theme that bigger is not always better in the insurance brokerage community. If you are a smaller company with under 50 employees, working with smaller brokerage firms may deliver a better overall result.

Plan Design Options

Since the legislation that governs the health insurance industry is in a constant state of flux we found through our research that it is very important to revisit the actual structure of the plan each year. Too many companies have had the same type of plan for 5 years, they have made some small tweaks here and there, but have never taken the time to really evaluate different design options.  In other words, you may need to demo the house and start from scratch to uncover true cost savings because the problem may be the actual foundation of the house.

High quality insurance brokers will consult with companies on the actual design of the plan to answer the key question like “what could the company be doing differently other than just comparing the current plan to a similar plan with other insurance providers?”   This is a key question that should be asked each year as part of the annual evaluation process.

HRA Accounts

The reason why plan design is so important is that health insurance is not a one size fits all.  As the owner of a small business you probably have a general idea as to how frequently and to what extent your employees are accessing their health insurance benefits.

For example, you may have a large concentration of younger employees that rarely utilize their health insurance benefits.  In cases like this, a company may choose to change the plan to a high deductible, fund a HRA account for each of the employees, and lower the annual premiums.

HRA stands for “Health Reimbursement Arrangement”.  These are IRS approved, 100% employer funded, tax advantage, accounts that reimburses employees for out of pocket medical expenses.  For example, let’s say I own a company that has a health insurance plan with no deductible and the company pays $1,000 per month toward the family premium ($12,000 per year).   I now replace the plan with a new plan that keeps the coverage the same for the employee, has a $3,000 deductible, and lowers the monthly premium that now only cost the company $800 per month ($9,600 per year).  As the employer, I can fund a HRA account for that employee with $3,000 at the beginning of the year which covers the full deductible.  If that employee only visits the doctors twice that year and incurs $500 in claims, at the end of the year there will be $2,500 in that HRA account for that employee that the employer can then take back and use for other purposes.  The flip side to this example is the employee has a medical event that uses the full $3,000 deductible and the company is now out of pocket $12,600 ($9,600 premiums + $3,000 HRA) instead of $12,000 under the old plan.  Think of it as a strategy to “self-insure” up to a given threshold with a stop loss that is covered by the insurance itself.  The cost savings with this “semi self-insured” approach could be significant but the company has to conduct a risk / return analysis based on their estimated employee claim rate to determine whether or not it’s a viable option.

This is just one example of the plan design options that are available to companies in an attempt to lower the overall cost of maintaining the plan.

Making The Switch

You are allowed to switch your health insurance provider prior to the plan’s renewal date.  However, note that if your current plan has a deductible and your replacement plan also carries a deductible, the employees will not get credit for the deductibles paid under the old plan and will start the new plan at zero.  Based on the number of months left in the year and the premium savings it may warrant a “band-aide solution” using HRA, HSA, or Flex Spending Accounts to execute the change prior to the renewal date. 

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.

Do I Have To Pay Taxes On My Inheritance?

Whenever people come into large sums of money, such as inheritance, the first question is “how much will I be taxed on this money”?  Believe it or not, money you receive from an inheritance is likely not taxable income to you.

Of course there are some caveats to this.  If the inherited money is from an estate, there is a chance the money received was already taxed at the estate level.  The current federal estate exclusion is $5,430,000 (estate taxes and the exclusion amount varies for states). Therefore, if the estate was large enough, a portion of the inheritance may have been subject to estate tax which is 40% in most cases.  That being said, whether the money was or was not taxed at the estate level, you as an individual do not have to pay income taxes on the money.

Although the inheritance itself is not taxable, you may end up paying taxes if there is appreciation after the money is inherited.  The type of account and distribution will dictate how the income will be taxed.

Basis Of Inherited Property

Typically, the basis of inherited property is the fair market value of the property on the date of the decedent’s death or the fair market value of the property on the alternate valuation date if the estate uses the alternate valuation date for valuing assets.  An estate will choose to value assets on an alternate date subsequent to the date of death if certain assets, such as stocks, have depreciated since the date of death and the estate would pay less tax using the alternate date.

What the fair market value basis means is that if you inherit stock that was originally purchased for $500 and at the date of death has appreciated to $10,000, you will have a “step-up” basis of $10,000.  If you turn around and sell the stock for $11,000, you will have a $1,000 gain and if you sell the stock for $9,000, you will have a $1,000 loss.

Inheriting a personal residence also provides for a step-up in basis but the gain or loss may be treated differently.  If no one lives in the inherited home after the date of death, it will be treated similar to the stock example above.  If you move into the home after death, any subsequent sale at a loss will not be deductible as it will be treated as your personal asset but a gain would have to be recognized and possibly taxed.  If you rent the property subsequent to inheritance, it could be treated as a trade or business which would be treated differently for tax purposes.

Inheriting An IRA or Retirement Plan Account

Please read our article “Inherited IRA’s: How Do They Work” for a more detailed explanation of the three different types of distribution options.

When you inherit a retirement account, and you are not the spouse of the decedent, in most cases you will only have one option, fully distribute the account balance 10 years following the year of the decedents death.   The SECURE Act that was passed in December 2019 dramatically change the distribution options available to non-spouse beneficiaries. See the article below: 

If you are the spouse of the of the decedent, you are able to treat the retirement account as if it was yours and not be forced to take one of the options above.  You will have to pay taxes on distributions but you do not have to start withdrawing funds immediately unless there are required minimum distributions needed.

Note: If the inherited account was an after tax account (i.e. Roth), the inheritor must choose one of the options presented above but no tax will be paid on distributions. 

Non-Qualified Annuities

Non-qualified annuities are an exception to the step-up in basis rule.  The non-spousal inheritor of a non-qualified annuity will have to take either a lump sum or receive payments over a specified time period.  If the inheritor chooses a lump sum, the portion that represents the gain (lump sum balance minus decedent’s contributions) will be taxed as ordinary income.  If the inheritor chooses a series of payments, distributions will be treated as last in, first out.  Last in, first out means that the appreciation will be distributed first and fully taxable until there is only basis left.

If the spouse inherits the annuity, they most likely have the option to treat the annuity contract as if they were the original owner.

This article concentrated on inheritance at a federal level.  There is no inheritance tax at a federal level but some states do have an inheritance tax and therefore meeting with a professional is recommended.  New York currently does not have an inheritance tax. 

About Rob……...

Hi, I’m Rob Mangold. I’m the Chief Operating Officer at Greenbush Financial Group and a contributor to the Money Smart Board blog. We created the blog to provide strategies that will help our readers personally , professionally, and financially. Our blog is meant to be a resource. If there are questions that you need answered, pleas feel free to join in on the discussion or contact me directly.

The Process Of Buying A House

Buying a house can be a fun and exciting experience but it’s also one of the most important financial decisions that you are going to make during your lifetime.  This article is designed to help home buyer’s understand:

• The home buying process from start to finish

• The parties involved in the process (real estate agent, attorney, bank, etc.)

• Common pitfalls to avoid

• What to expect when applying for a mortgage

• How to calculate the amount of your down payment

Owning Versus Renting

You first have to determine if owning a house is the right financial decision for you.  Society wires us to think that owning a house is automatically better than renting but that is not necessarily true in all situations.  From a pure dollar and cents standpoint, it may make sense to keep renting given your personal situation.  We typically tell clients if there is a fair chance that they may need to sell their house within the next 5 years, in many cases it may make sense to keep renting as opposed to buying a house given all of the upfront costs associated with purchasing a house.  It takes a while to recoup closing costs and when you go to sell your house you will most like have to pay your real estate agent 5% - 6% of the selling price.

Determine How Much You Can Afford

Before you even start looking at houses you have to determine two things:

• The down payment and closing costs

• The amount of the monthly mortgage payment that fits into your budget

There is no point in looking at $300,000 houses if you cannot afford the down payment or the monthly mortgage payment so the initial step involves determining what you can afford.

Calculating Your Closing Costs

Closing costs are in addition to your required “down payment”.  First time home buyers often make the mistake of just using the 5% down or 10% down as a rule of thumb for their total upfront cost for buying a house. They often forget about closing costs which can add an additional 2% - 5% of the purchase price of the house to the amount due at closing.  Closing costs include:

Discount Points:  An up-front fee that you can choose to pay if you want to reduce the interest rate on your loan.

Origination Charge:  Fee for processing your mortgage application, pulling credit reports, verifying financial information, and creating the loan

Rate-lock Fee:  If you choose to lock in your interest rate beyond a certain period of time

Other Lender Fees:  Document preparation fee, processing fee, application fee, and underwriting fees

Appraisal & Inspection Fees:  Fees for the lender to inspect and appraise the value of the house

Title Services:  Fee charged by the title agent to determine the rightful ownership of the house you are buying and some lenders require title insurance.

Government Recording Charges:  Every home buyer must pay these charges for the state and local agencies to record the loans and title documents

Transfer Taxes:  Depending on where you live, your state, county or city may charge a tax when the ownership of a home is transferred

Escrow Deposit:  At the closing of your home loan, if you decide to escrow or if an escrow is required, there will be an initial deposit in your escrow account to pay for future recurring charges associated with your home, such as property taxes, school taxes, and insurance.  You will typically need to pay for the first year of your homeowner’s insurance in full before your home loan closes.

Daily Interest Rate Charge:  This charge covers the amount of interest that you will owe on your home loan from the time your loan closes to the first day of your regular mortgage billing cycle.

Flood Insurance:  This is a form of hazard insurance that is required by lenders to cover properties in flood zones.

Attorney Fees:  Fees typically vary from $300 - $1,000.  Most individuals will work with a real estate attorney to review and negotiate the purchase agreement on their behalf. These fees are sometimes paid to the attorney prior to the closing.

As you can see there are a number of fees that you have to be prepared to pay in addition to the down payment required by the lender.  Lenders are required by law to give you a “good faith estimate” (GFE) of what the closing costs on your home will be within three days of when you apply for a loan.  However, these are just estimates and many of the fees listing on the GFE can legally change by up to 10%, potentially adding thousands of dollars to your final closing cost bill.   A day before your closing the lender should provide you with a copy of your HUD-1 settlement statement, which outlines all of the closing fees.

Calculating Your Down Payment

The amount of your down payment will vary based on the type of loan that you received to purchase your house.  The three main types of home loans are:

• FHA Loan

• Conventional Mortgage

• VA Loan (Veterans Affairs)

FHA Loan: FHA stands for Federal Housing Administration.  The loans are made by banks but they are guaranteed by the FHA which added additional protection for the lender.  FHA loans come with a minimum down payment of 3.5% which make them very popular.  With these loans borrowers pay PMI (private mortgage insurance) premiums both upfront and each year until the loan is paid down to a specified level.  Loan limits vary by housing type and county.  These loans tend to favor low to middle income borrowers who do not have a means to make the traditional 10% - 20% down payment at closing.

Conventional Mortgage:  Minimum down payment varies from 5% - 20%.  Borrowers that put down less than 20% will have to pay PMI (private mortgage insurance).  Conventional mortgages typically require a higher FICO score than FHA loans.  These loans tend to favor borrowers with higher credit scores and have enough cash on hand to make a sizable down payment.

VA Loan:  VA loans are available only to veterans.  The greatest benefit of these loans is they require no down payment and they allow qualified borrowers to purchase a home without the need for mortgage insurance.   VA loans also tend to have more flexible and forgiving requirements.  The VA charges a mandatory Fund Fee of 2.15% for regular military and 2.40% for Reserve/Guard on purchase loans.Let’s bring it all together in an example.  If you anticipate on buying a house for $200,000 and you plan on taking an FHA loan, the amount that you will need to save for the closing will be in the range of $11,000 - $17,000 (3.5% for the down payment and 2% - 5% for the closing costs).  This calculation will obviously vary based on the type of loan you plan on taking to purchase your house.

Determine what your monthly mortgage payment

After you have determined how much you need to save to meet the upfront cost of purchasing a house, the next step is to determine the monthly mortgage payment that fits into your budget.

Step 1:  Establish your current monthly and annual budget.  There is no way to determine what you can afford if you have no idea where you are now from an income and expense standpoint.  Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself when listing your expenses.  The last thing you want to do is underestimate your expenses, buy a house you cannot afford, and then go through a foreclosure.   You will also have to factor in additional expenses into your budget as if you owned the house today such as lawn care, snow removal, appliances, and maintenance expense.  As a renter you may not have any of these expenses now but as soon as you own a house, now when something breaks you have to pay to fix it.  Homeownership is often times more expensive than most individuals anticipate.

Step 2:  Based on your current monthly income and expenses, how much is left over to satisfy a monthly mortgage payment?  The general rule is your monthly mortgage payment (including property taxes, PMI, and association fees) should not exceed 32% of your monthly gross income.  Tip: Leave some extra room in your budget for life’s unexpected surprises. For example, furnace need to be replaced, dishwasher brakes, spouse loses a job, plumbing issues, etc.

Step 3:  Use an online mortgage calculator to determine the loan amount that meets your estimated monthly mortgage payment.  Do not forget to take into account property taxes, school taxes, association fees, PMI, and homeowners insurance when reaching your estimated monthly payment.

The parties involved in the home buying process 

There are a lot of different professionals that you will interact with during the process of purchasing your house.   It’s important to understand who is involved, what their role is in the process, and how they are compensated.

Buyer & Seller: This is pretty self-explanatory.  Most buyers and sellers work through realtors and attorneys to complete the real estate transaction so there is typically little or no direct interaction between the buyer and the seller.  However, in a “for sale by owner”, the buyer or the buyer’s realtor/attorney will be in direct communication with the seller since there is no real estate agent on the sellers side.

Real Estate Agent (Realtor):  Real estate agents are important partners when you are buying a house.  They can provide you with helpful information on homes and neighborhoods that isn’t easily accessible to the public.  Their knowledge of the home buying process, negotiation skills, and familiarity with the area you want to live in can be very valuable.  In most cases, as the buyer, it does not typically cost you anything to use a realtor because they are compensated from the commission paid by the seller of the house.

Real Estate Attorney:  Remember, buying a home is a legally binding transaction.  A real estate attorney can help you avoid some common pitfalls when purchasing your home.  The home buying process eventually results in a formal purchase agreement between the buyer and seller.  The purchase agreement is the single most important document in the transaction.  Although standard printed forms may be used, a lawyer can explain the forms and make changes and additions to reflect the buyer’s wishes. Examples are:

• What are the legal consequences if the closing does not take place?

• What happens if the inspection reveals termites, radon, or lead based paint?

• Will money be held in escrow from the seller’s proceeds to replace certain items?

How much does a real estate attorney cost?  It varies, but expect to pay somewhere in the range of $350 - $1,000.  Often times you have to pay the attorney a retainer or pay them in advance of the closing.  The amount an attorney charges is usually dependent on the level of services that they are provided to you.  Some attorneys may just be preparing the deed while other attorney’s may provide you with a more complete package which can include deed preparation, title examination, purchase agreement review, and lender work.   Make sure you fully understand how the attorney’s fee structure works and it often helps to ask your professional network or friends for attorney’s that they have worked with and would recommend.

Bank / Credit Union:  Most home buyers need a mortgage to finance the purchase of their house.  It is recommended that you contact a few banks and credit unions in your area to compare interest rates, closing costs, and fees associated with the issuance of your mortgage.  Similar to selecting a real estate attorney we strongly recommend asking your professional network (accountant, investment advisor) for lenders that they recommend working with.  You will have a lot of interaction with the lender throughout the home buying process and working with a lender that makes the underwriting process as smooth as possible will make the overall home buying experience much more enjoyable.

Home Inspector:  After your offer has been accepted by the seller you will need to hire a home inspector to visit the house.  Your real estate agent will most likely recommend a home inspector to use.  The job of the home inspector is to visit the property to make sure there are no issues with the house that may not be apparent to the untrained eye.  They look for termite damage, structural issues, mold, condition of the roof, electric, plumbing, drainage, septic, radon levels, etc.  A few days after their visit they will provide you with a formal report of their inspection.   You typically pay them at the time they conduct the inspection.  The cost of a home inspection typically ranges from $250 - $600.

Insurance Broker:   You will need to obtain a homeowners insurance policy prior to the closing date.  Since you are adding a house to your insurance coverage, often times this is a good opportunity to look at your insurance coverage as a whole because insurance companies will usually offer discounts on “bundling” your insurance coverage.  Meaning that a single provider covers your house, cars, and personal umbrella policy.  The annual cost of your homeowners insurance will vary greatly depending on the value of your house and where the house is located.  For homeowners that have an escrow account associated with their mortgage, the homeowners insurance premium is typically baked into your total monthly mortgage payment , the insurance company issues the invoice directly to the bank, and the bank pays your homeowners insurance directly out of your escrow account.

Timeline: The home buying process from start to finish

Now that we have explained how to determine what you can afford and the parties involved in the home buying process it’s time to put it all together so you know what to expect step by step through the process of purchasing your new home.

Step 1:  Get prequalified for a mortgage.  You may think you can qualify for a $250,000 mortgage but you really do not know until you actually apply.  In the preapproval process you will provide some information to the bank that will be issuing your mortgage such as tax returns, statements showing investment and savings accounts, and they will usually run a credit report.    The more intense financial due diligence happens after an offer has been accepted on your house and they are actually preparing to provide you with the loan.

Step 2:  Begin looking at houses.  Most individuals at this point will hire a real estate agent to help them find and look at houses.

Step 3:  Make an offer.  Once you find the house that you want, you will have your real estate agent present the seller with your offer.  This is where the negotiation process begins.  If the seller is listing the house for $200,000, you can make an offer for whatever amount you choose. Once an offer is presented to the seller, three things can happen:

• The seller can accept it

• The seller can reject it

• The seller will counter offer

Your real estate agent can really help you in this process to determine what may be a reasonable offer.  It is usually dependent upon how long the house has been on the market, where is the property located, is there a situation that requires selling the house quickly, and what have other similar houses sold for in the area.  After making the offer you will typically receive a response within 48 hours.  The seller will sometimes give their real estate agent a range saying that they will accept less than the asking price but only to a specific threshold. In most situations the buyer and the seller meet somewhere in the middle. If the house is listed for $200K, the buyer may put in an offer for $180K and after some back and forth they eventually meet somewhere around $190K.  But that is not always the case.  If there are multiple offers on the house you could end up in a “bidding war”.  Offers are “blind bids” meaning that you and your real estate agent have no way of knowing what other people are offering the seller for the house.  Buyers are essentially making their “best guess” that their offer will win.  You may make an offer for full price only for another buyer to come in two hours later and offer $10,000 over their asking price.  You really have to lean on your real estate agent to give you some guidance based on their knowledge of the market.

Step 4: Offer accepted……now what?  Typically, purchase offers are contingent on a home inspection of the property.  Your real estate agent will usually help you arrange to have a home inspection conducted within a few days of your offer being accepted.  There are usually contingencies in your offer agreement that provides you with the chance to renegotiate your offer or withdraw it without penalty if the inspection reveals significant material damage.  If the inspector discovers issues with the house you will have to make the decision if you want to ask the seller to fix the issue prior to the closing date.  Prior to the close you will have a walk-through of the house, which gives you a chance to confirm that any agreed-upon repairs have been made.

Step 5:  Apply for a mortgage.  Now that your offer has been accepted the mortgage underwriting process will kick into high gear.  The bank will assign you a “loan officer” or “mortgage broker” to serve as the direct contact at the bank throughout the mortgage approval process.  You will provide them with the information on the house that you intend to purchase, they will send you the mortgage application with all of financial documents that they will need to formally approve you for the mortgage. The bank will also arrange for an appraiser to visit the house and provide an independent estimate of the value of the house.  After all if they are giving you a loan for $200,000, they want to make sure that house is worth at least $200,000 in case you were to stop paying the mortgage then essentially the bank would own the house and have to sell it.  You will receive a “commitment letter” from your bank once your mortgage has been formally approved.

You will need to show the bank documentation of the account that is currently holding the cash that will be used for your down payment and closing costs.  If someone gifts you money to buy your house, the person that made the gift will most likely have to sign a letter stating that it was an outright gift and not a loan.

Step 5½ : You will simultaneous engage a real estate attorney to begin working with at this time.  Your attorney will review the purchase agreement, initiate a title search and review the results, begin prepping the deed, and communicate directly with the seller’s attorney if changes or additions need to be made to the purchasing agreement.

Step 6: Set a closing date.  The closing date is the date that you will sign a huge pile of papers and the house officially becomes yours.  There is typically an “estimated closing date” set in the purchase agreement but a firm date needs to be set by the buyer, seller, attorneys, and the bank.  The seller’s real estate agent, the buyer’s real estate agent, your mortgage broker, and the attorneys on both sides will typically communicate with each other to establish the closing date.  A special note……..a lot can happen during a real estate transaction that can delay the closing date.    Issues can arise on the seller’s side or the mortgage process could take longer than expected.  In other words, even though you have a “final closing date” be prepared for the closing date to change.  If you are renting right now and have a lease, if your closing date is May 1st it’s usually recommended that you have your current lease run until May 30th or June 30th in case the closing date gets pushed back.  Real estate transactions have a lot of moving parts and a lot of unexpected things that are out of your control can happen.

Step 7:  Contact your insurance broker to establish a homeowner’s policy.  Your bank will require you to have homeowners insurance on the property.  You must pay for the policy and have it at closing.  You are free to select your own insurance carrier but the lender will typically require the insurance company issuing the policy to be a specific rating or higher.

Your insurance broker may also help you with your title insurance policy.  Many lenders will require you to have a title insurance policy at closing.  As part of the home buying process a title search should be conducted which results in a report that shows who owns the property and if there are any liens against the property.  Title insurance protects you and the lender up to the full value of the property if fraud, a lien, or faulty title is discovered after your closing.

Step 8: The day BEFORE the closing.  It is recommended that you send a reminder email to your real estate agent, attorney, and mortgage broker to confirm that everything is a “go” for the closing the next day.  You and your real estate agent should make a final inspection of the property within 24 hours prior to the closing.  In many cases, the lender will make a similar inspection before closing.  The bank that is issuing you the loan should also be able to provide you with a copy of your HUD-1, which is a long, one page document that details all of the financial activity associated with the purchase of your house.  You should review this document with your mortgage broker and/or attorney prior to the closing to make sure everything is accurate.

You will also need to confirm with your attorney/mortgage broker the amount of the certified check that you will need to bring to the closing.  A certified check is a special type of check issued by a bank that guarantees that the funds to back that check are guaranteed by the bank issuing the check.

Step 9:  The date of your closing.  You made it!!!!!! Today is the day your new house officially becomes yours.    There are two primary things that you need to bring with you to the closing:

• Certified check

• Homeowners policy and proof of payment

The actual closing is conducted by a “closing agent” who may be an employee of the lender or title company, or it may be an attorney representing you or the lender.  The lender and seller, or their representatives, and the real estate agents may or may not be at the actual closing.  It is not unusual for the parties to the transaction to complete their roles without ever meeting face to face.

For the most part, your role at closing is to review and sign the numerous documents associated with a mortgage loan.  The closing agent should explain the nature and purpose of each one and give you and your attorney an opportunity to check them before signing.

At the conclusion of the meeting you receive the keys to the house and you are officially a new homeowner.

Step 10: Begin making your monthly mortgage payments.  One of the top questions that we get is “What is an escrow account?”  You will hear that term a lot when you are going through the mortgage process.  Think of an escrow account as a separate savings account that is attached to your mortgage.  When you make a monthly mortgage payment, it is made up of a few components:

• Principal & Interest Payments: Amount applied against your actual loan

• PMI (if applicable): Mortgage insurance

• Escrow: Cash reserve to pay taxes and homeowners insurance

If my monthly mortgage payment is $2,000, only $1,100 of that amount may actually be applied against the loan. The other $900 may be used to pay my monthly PMI and the remainder is deposited to my escrow account.

When your property taxes and school taxes are due, the county that you live in will typically send those tax bills directly to the bank holding your mortgage and then the bank in turn pays those bills out of your escrow account.  The bank will typically mail the homeowners a receipt that the tax bill has been paid.  It’s basically a forced monthly savings account for your anticipated tax bills.  The same thing is true for your homeowner insurance premium payments. The bank that is holding your mortgage forecasts how much your taxes and homeowner insurance is going to be for the next 12 months and then builds those amounts into your monthly mortgage payments. The bank does not want you to lose your house because you were unable to pay your property or school taxes.  The property and school tax bills show up once a year and depending on where you live those bills can be for thousands of dollars.

If there is additional money left in your escrow account after the taxes and homeowner insurance has been paid, the bank is usually required to send a portion of that additional cash reserve to the homeowner in the form of a check.  Those are fun checks to get in the mail. 

Michael Ruger

About Michael……...

Hi, I’m Michael Ruger. I’m the managing partner of Greenbush Financial Group and the creator of the nationally recognized Money Smart Board blog . I created the blog because there are a lot of events in life that require important financial decisions. The goal is to help our readers avoid big financial missteps, discover financial solutions that they were not aware of, and to optimize their financial future.